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Planning A Design

Planning A Design Embroidery Project

By   James M. (Jimmy) Lamb   on   April 03, 2008
Description

Spending time plotting out the sewing sequence, identifying stitch types and choosing stitch control factors will greatly simplify the on-screen part of the digitizing job.

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Believe it or not, the most important part of a design is the preparation that is done prior to using the computer. Spending time plotting out the sewing sequence, identifying stitch types and choosing stitch control factors will greatly simplify the on-screen part of the digitizing job.

The first step is to sit back, get comfortable, and analyze the design from start to finish. Ask yourself these questions:
  1. Is it suitable for embroidery?
  2. What will it be sewn on?
  3. What is the ideal size?
  4. How many colors are in the design?
  5. What is the logical sew order?
  6. Are there any special features or focus points?
  7. Which details will work? Which ones won’t?
  8. Are there any special challenges?

The second step in planning a design is to break it down by color. The intent is to sew each color completely before moving on to the next one. However, that is not always possible due to the way the design is layered. Therefore, after breaking it down by color, continue breaking it down by layer.

When possible, it is desirable to digitize the largest elements of a design first as they provide more stability and act as an “anchor”. When practical, work from the largest elements down to the smallest elements. As every design is different, that may not always be possible, but it should be a basic rule-of-thumb. Keep in mind that a large element can affect smaller elements around it, but rarely will a small element affect larger ones that are nearby.

After analyzing and breaking down the design, the next step is to build a roadmap for the digitizing. This involves choosing the sew sequence, stitch types, stitch directions, stitch patterns, underlays, overlaps, push-pull compensation methods, etc. All of this information should then be written down and used as a guide to follow while digitizing. If done properly, this will improve the efficiency of the job, while decreasing editing.

When building your design roadmap one of the toughest, yet most critical issues to decide on is the sewing order of the design, which is referred to as PATHING. Essentially, you are going to define the path that the sewing will follow from the beginning to the end of a design.

New Digitizers tend to focus more on how the software works, more than on how a machine sews, thus pathing is not even a word in their vocabulary. They simply start applying stitch types to design elements and hope for the best. Sometimes they get lucky, but more often that not, they get frustrated.

One of the most common pathing mistakes (especially for lettering) is to treat a design like you are reading a paragraph, which means left to right, up to down. Sewing sequence has nothing to do with reading sequence. For embroidery, the pathing process should take these issues into consideration as a priority:

  1. Stabilize the fabric as quickly and efficiently as possible.
  2. Minimize color changes
  3. Minimize trims and jumps
  4. Create a layered, 3D effect
     

Done properly, an efficient sewing path will lead to more efficient production, higher quality embroidery and lower costs. For example, one of the goals for laying out a proper path through a design is to minimize thread trims and color changes. Trims and color changes cost MONEY!!

A machine sewing at an average speed of 600spm is sewing 10 stitches per second (sps).

1 Trim can take up to 5 seconds or a loss of 50 stitches.

1 Color Change can take up to 10 seconds or a loss of 100 stitches.

10 color changes adds the equivalent of up to 1000 stitches to a design (when sewing at 600spm). If you are charging $1.00/1000 to sew, then such a design costs an extra $1.00 each time you run it, just to cover the color changes.

As well as minimizing actions that will slow or stop the sewing process, try to avoid long jumps, as they too interrupt the sewing process. And if such a jump doesn’t include a trim, then there is a tendency to pull bobbin thread to the surface due to the physical action of the jump process.

Engineer each job on paper first, then go to the computer only when you are satisfied that you have created the best and most efficient sequence for sewing your design.

To put it all in perspective, let’s plan a real design.

Meet the Author: James M. (Jimmy) Lamb
James M. (Jimmy) Lamb
Award-winning author and international speaker Jimmy Lamb has over 15 years of embroidery experience as well as 10 years of professional digitizing experience (as a business owner). Currently, he is the Director of Training and Education for Hirsch International Corp., where he has been instrumental in developing their educational seminars.
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