One Size Doesn't Fit All Embroidery Project

Needle size denotes the diameter of the blade or shaft. The size that you would select for a job is dependent upon the thread size as well as the thickness or stiffness of the fabric.

There are two systems used for needle size: the metric (European) system and the Singer (United States) system. The metric system size is determined by multiplying the diameter of the blade by 100. For example, a needle with a metric system size of 80 has a blade diameter of 0.8mm (0.8 X 100). The Singer system arbitrarily applies a number to these measurements. For example, the 80 metric needle is labeled as a 12 in the Singer system. The Metric Size System increases in increments of five, while the other system increases in increments of one. Usually both systems are reflected on the needle package. (70/10, 75/11, 80/12, etc.)

In general, the larger the needle, the larger the eye. Thus thicker threads require a larger needle so that the thread can pass easily through the eye. To test the proper needle/thread combination, thread a loose needle with about 2 feet of the chosen thread. Alternately raise and lower each end of the thread, allowing the needle to slide back and forth. If the needle slides easily by its own weight, it is suitable for that thread size.

As needles get larger in size, the diameter of the blade or shaft increases. The result is a stronger needle. For heavy, stiff fabrics, a larger size needle should be selected. However, since bigger needles are larger in diameter, they make larger holes in the fabric, thus they are not suitable for sewing fine details and small letters, or for dealing with lightweight or fragile fabrics.

Therefore, the embroiderer must take into account fabric and design characteristics when selecting the proper needle for the job.