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Digitizing Fundamentals XIII

Digitizing Fundamentals XIII Embroidery Project

By   James M. (Jimmy) Lamb   on   April 01, 2006
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Bringing a Design to Life - The Engineering Approach

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Bringing a Design to Life - The Engineering Approach

Engineering a design to embroider properly is just as challenging, if not more so, than making it look good. You must go back and focus on the basic building blocks of embroidery - the stitches. Determine how to best manipulate the stitches to ensure smooth, high-speed sewing with minimal thread breaks while preserving the necessary artistry.

The building blocks of a design that runs well are:

Underlay

Underlay serves as the foundation to support a design. It has four basic purposes as follows:

  • To offer support and integrity for the topstitching.
  • To prevent or minimize push-pull problems.
  • To stabilize the garment by tacking it to the backing.
  • To create texture and raised surfaces.
  • Density

    Density is a measurement of the number of stitches within a given area. You adjust density according to the fabric and the design’s size.

    Things to Consider About Density:

  • Generally, lighter fabrics and smaller designs require fewer stitches.
  • Density is has a major influence on the look and sewing quality of a design.
  • Varying the density can create different visual affects.
  • As the design gets smaller density is decreased.
  • As it gets larger density is increased.
  • Too much density causes puckering of the fabric.
  • Too little density lets the fabric show through the top stitches.
  • Higher density needs increased underlay to reduce the puckering effects.
  • You can use a heavier thread, such as a 30 weight, to cover the same area as a 40 weight thread, but with fewer stitches.
  • Push-Pull Compensation

    During the sewing process, certain areas of a design may shift in position, change shape or change size. This is known as PUSH and PULL. It is caused by a combination of factors including fabric properties, type of stitch, size of segment area, lack of underlay and improper density. It is one of the most frustrating aspects of embroidery digitizing.

    Things to Consider About Push-Pull:
  • Longer stitches tend to pull IN from the edges.
  • Unstable fabrics, such as kinits causing shifting and pulling in of stitches.
  • Larger areas of coverage are more susceptible to push-pull effects.
  • Thick fabrics cause more distortion than thin ones.

    Solutions for dealing with Push-Pull:
  • Proper underlay is the key to reducing the effects of push-pull. A heavy, lattice type of underlay is ideal for circles and ovals.
  • If pulling in at the edges still occurs, then it may be necessary to compensate for this by extending the stitches where they pull-in.
  • Cornering

    Stitches must lie down neatly around sharp corners, without “bunching”. There are several cornering techniques as follows:

  • Mitered corner
  • Hand sewn or straight corner
  • Capped corner
  • Angle-line corner
  • Auto-turn corner
  • Short Stitches

    In order to maintain equal density in curves, short stitches must be used along the inside of the curve. Otherwise, “bunching” and thread breaks will occur in this area.

    Lock Stitches & Running Starts

    A lock stitch firmly attaches the thread at the beginning of a long stitch or a trim, therefore keeping your stitches from pulling apart. Lock stitches are placed at the beginning and end of a segment to prevent the stitches from unraveling. The same concept can be created using “running starts.”

    Pathing & Roadmaps

    PATHING means to plan the path of stitches through each element so as to ensure proper connections between elements, by creating the appropriate entry and exit points for each element. This also helps keep the stitches flowing. Once a logical path has been established, then a roadmap can be created for the design. The roadmap is an informal set of instructions for digitizing the design from beginning to end.

    Designing great embroidery is a result of visualizing and focusing on the design from beginning to end and then creating a game plan to ensure that it looks good and sews well.

    Meet the Author: James M. (Jimmy) Lamb
    James M. (Jimmy) Lamb
    Award-winning author and international speaker Jimmy Lamb has over 15 years of embroidery experience as well as 10 years of professional digitizing experience (as a business owner). Currently, he is the Director of Training and Education for Hirsch International Corp., where he has been instrumental in developing their educational seminars.
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