Embroidery Techniques: Fleece

Embroidery Techniques: Fleece Embroidery Project

By   James M. (Jimmy) Lamb   on   May 01, 2005
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Sewing on Fleece

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Sewing on Fleece

Each fabric that you encounter will require thought and preparation in order to successfully apply embroidery to it. Needles, backing, topping and even machine speed will all have to be taken into account.

With fleece, you will need to first analyze the characteristics of the fabric and then make the proper choices for handling the sewing process. Fleece is typically thick and stretchy (unstable) so the first step is to choose the right backing. A medium weight cutaway backing will be required to stabilize the fabric.

Do you need a water soluble topping as well? That’s debatable. Toppings work best when dealing with a textured surface, as they tend to provide a smoother surface for the upper threads to lie on. Such toppings will have more benefit with the high pile fabrics such as Sherpa Fleece than they will with the low pile ones such as Micro Fleece. Also, if using a water-soluble topping, it must be wet thoroughly to remove it. Thus, you will have to allow the garment to dry before delivering it to the customer.

Though you may receive some benefit with a topping, your best option is the adjustment of the design properties via your software. Increase your density and column widths 10 to 20 percent. (Experiment for the best results.) In addition, add a substantial amount of underlay. Perpendicular combined with zig-zag is a good start for column stitches. Lattice patterns work well for fill stitches.

After making backing and topping choices, decide which needle will work best for the job. Typically a 75/11 ballpoint needle is the best choice. Anything smaller may be too weak to handle bulky fabrics such as fleece.

Hooping is the next challenge. Because of its bulk, hooping fleece can be a bit more difficult than other fabrics. Resist the temptation to over-tighten the hoop adjustment screw. Making the hoop too tight can cause hoop burn. Hoop marks are normal and can be removed with steam, water or magic sizing. Hoop burn on the other hand is the result of crushed fibers and can be permanent.

Meet the Author: James M. (Jimmy) Lamb
James M. (Jimmy) Lamb
Award-winning author and international speaker Jimmy Lamb has over 15 years of embroidery experience as well as 10 years of professional digitizing experience (as a business owner). Currently, he is the Director of Training and Education for Hirsch International Corp., where he has been instrumental in developing their educational seminars.
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