Reversible Embroidery

Reversible Embroidery Embroidery Project

By   James M. (Jimmy) Lamb   on   July 01, 2005
Description

Sometimes the back's just as important as the front!

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Sometimes the back's just as important as the front!

What exactly does reversible embroidery mean? Is it something like an “UNDO” command, where you can reverse the process if you screw something up? Don’t you wish!! Sorry, but that’s the wrong answer!

Reversible embroidery refers to an application, where the backside of the embroidery is just as visible as the front. For most of your jobs, no one ever looks at the backside of your design (except another embroiderer who is trying to find a flaw with your tension settings), thus it’s really only the front of the design that matters. But from time-to-time, you will encounter a situation where the backside is just as important as the front. The result is that you will have to carefully review the job parameters and then choose a method that achieves the desired result.

Typical situations that require reversible embroidery include: director’s chairs, flags, pennants, and in some cases, towels and blankets.

The first challenge is bobbin thread. With reversible embroidery, you must have the same color bobbin as upper thread. Unfortunately, bobbin thread is not well-known for its abundance of color variations. Unless you are using white, black or red upper thread, then you are probably going to have a tough time finding a matching bobbin thread. The solution is to wind your own bobbin thread.

Many commercial embroidery machines have the ability to wind bobbins and come with empty metal bobbin spools for that purpose. In addition, most sewing machines also have bobbin-winding capabilities, though you must ensure that the bobbin spool is compatible with your embroidery machine. After confirming that you have the ability to wind your own bobbin, then you have to decide what type of thread to use. I recommend polyester. Remember that the top thread and bobbin must match, so the same thread needs to be used for both. Polyester is stronger than rayon, thus it’s a better choice. (I’ve done this – it really works.) Oh, and by the way, if it’s a multi-colored design, guess what? You have to change the bobbin at each color change to match the upper thread. Thus, it’s recommended that you try to stick with single color designs.

Another critical point to consider when creating reversible embroidery is the backing. It’s imperative that you use tear-away backing, so that you don’t have any excess backing showing on the rear.

After you have created the matching bobbin and chosen the proper backing, you are all ready to sew, right? Wrong! Now you have to address the issue of design orientation. If you have a simple design such as a circle or square, it’s the same regardless of whether you view it from the front or back. But suppose you had to sew a directional arrow that pointed from left to right. When viewed from the rear, this arrow would be pointing from right to left. Is that acceptable for the customer?

Now take that a step further and think about lettering. If you were sewing the name Paulette on a directors chair, it would be perfect when viewed from one direction, but virtually unreadable when viewed from the opposite side, as it would be spelled in reverse, with each individual letter also being reversed. Believe it or not, there are situations where the customer is okay with one side being in reverse. The real question then becomes, which side faces what direction. Having worked with the local movie industry, I have encountered situations where they want the name to be readable when someone is sitting in the chair. That means the primary side of the seat back must face the rear. In other settings, the customer wants the name to be read from the front, as the sitter is rarely sitting, thus the primary side must face the front.

In reality, most customers want to have the embroidery legible from both directions. In the case of lettering and complex designs, then a totally different method will be required. To ensure equal orientation, it will be necessary to sew the design on two identical items, then sew them together. For example, for a Yacht Club Pennant with the letters WYC, you would sew obtain two pennants and designate one as the front and one as the back. Sew WYC on each one paying close attention to the fact that one pennant will be pointing one direction, while the other will be pointing in the opposite direction when they are mated together. Thus, hoop the “front” pennant, such that is pointing to the right and sew the letters WYC from left to right. Hoop the “rear” pennant such that it is pointing to the left and sew the letters WYC also from left to right. Sew the two pennants together. You will have a finished pennant that can be easily read from both sides.

Creating reversible embroidery is not that difficult, but it does require you to think the process through and layout the job before applying the embroidery. You must also pay attention to pricing, as stitch counts don’t accurately portray the amount of time and labor that will be expended on this type of job. Therefore, it’s imperative that you account for all of the variables as they apply, including the time to wind bobbins and the time to setup the job. In cases like the pennant example, you must also include the cost for having to provide duplicate items, as well as the time involved in mating the two items together.

Reversible embroidery can be fun and profitable, but once it’s finished you can’t back up and change it! At least, not yet anyway.

Meet the Author: James M. (Jimmy) Lamb
James M. (Jimmy) Lamb
Award-winning author and international speaker Jimmy Lamb has over 15 years of embroidery experience as well as 10 years of professional digitizing experience (as a business owner). Currently, he is the Director of Training and Education for Hirsch International Corp., where he has been instrumental in developing their educational seminars.
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