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Tips for choosing the right hoop shape and size for your embroidery projects.
Simply put, hooping is the mechanical process for attaching a garment to the embroidery machine for sewing purposes. This is accomplished by mounting the area to be sewn in a special frame or hoop and then attaching this to the pantograph of the machine. The pantograph moves the garment as needed for proper needle penetration location. Its movement is controlled by the software commands embedded in an embroidery design file.
But hooping is not just about getting the garment on the machine. The garment must also be supported and held as rigidly as possible during the sewing process. Any movement of the garment while sewing could lead to poor quality stitching. There are many sizes and shapes of hoops, so it’s imperative that the right hoop be selected for each job.
Hoop Shapes
Round or oval hoops provide the most even tensioning on fabric, but don’t accommodate elongated or square designs very well.
Rectangular hoops may be needed for dealing with square or rectangular shapes, though the fabric tension is not equal at all parts of the hoop.
Hoop Materials
Wooden Hoop
Plastic is the most common hoop material. Virtually all styles of hoops are available in plastic.
Wooden hoops are favored by many embroiderers over the plastic variety. They are sturdier and have better tensioning qualities. However, they are more expensive than plastics. Wooden hoops are available in single and double height styles, with the double height being preferred due to its added strength qualities.
Metal hoops are available in a limited number of styles. They are most common in the very small sizes as they have high strength in a small area. But for the most part, metal hoops are rarely used.
Hoop Selection
In general, always choose the smallest hoop for the job, as it will provide the most support for the garment.
Be sure to account for the presser foot when choosing your hoop. You will need at least one inch between the edge of the design and the edge of the hoop to accommodate the presser foot.
Stiff garments do better with wooden hoops, as the plastic ones tend to lose their shape somewhat when attempting to hoop such items. This reduces their holding power and also affects design registration.
Hoop Inventory
Because logos come in many shapes and sizes, it’s imperative that you have a wide selection of hoops to choose from. The most frequently used sizes are 12cm round, 15cm round, 18cm round, 21cm round and 30X30xm rectangular. (These are not the only sizes available.)
You must always have at least two hoops of each size per sewing head. This allows you to hoop a garment while one is sewing.
Hooping Techniques
Keep the fabric taut and do not overtighten the hoop for the best results.
The fabric must be taut, but not stretched. If the fabric is stretched during the sewing process, it will return to normal when released from the hoop, which will distort the embroidery and possibly cause puckering in the fabric. If the fabric is too loose, then it will pucker while sewing.
Do not over tighten the hoop, as this will cause “hoop burn” in the fabric. Hoop burn is different from hoop marks. It’s normal to see an image of the hoop left behind on the fabric after it’s been unhooped. Magic Sizing spray or steam will easily remove all traces. Hoop burn, on the other hand, may be permanent. If the hoop is too tight it crushes the fibers in the garment, possibly causing permanent damage that cannot be fixed.
Do not adjust the hoop tension while it is applied to the garment. Always remove it first. Adjusting the tension screw while a garment is hooped only affects the hoop tension immediately adjacent to the tension screw, not all around the hoop. This leads to inconsistent hoop tension, which can cause poor quality stitching.
The framed piece should rest completely flat against the machine sewing surface. If not, the hooped item will bounce (flag) during sewing which will lead to thread breaks and even needle breaks.
Award-winning author and international speaker Jimmy Lamb has over 15 years of embroidery experience as well as 10 years of professional digitizing experience (as a business owner). Currently, he is the Director of Training and Education for Hirsch International Corp., where he has been instrumental in developing their educational seminars.