Patches & Emblems Embroidery Project

Most companies that specialize in this product are quite large and require minimum quantities in the range of 100 pieces or more. However, there are many customers looking for small quantities in the 5-24 piece range who are not being serviced. You can take advantage of this by offering small runs of custom patches. The processes are quite simple and can be used to embroider virtually any patch of any shape or size.

The production process used by companies that specialize in making patches from scratch involves special tools and processes that are not readily available to the average embroidery shop. The process begins with cutting out the fabric to be used to form the patch (The most common fabric is twill.) This is done using specialty cutting machines such as die-cutters or lasers. Then, a merrowed edge is applied (looks like a satin border, but it’s not) using a merrow machine. Depending upon the sophistication of the operation, embroidery is applied either before the cutting or after the patch is finished.

Many patch production companies also offer patches that are sold “blank” and are referred to as “finished blanks.”

Unless you are going into patch production as a full-time endeavor, there is no need for you to invest in expensive and elaborate production systems. There are some simple methods that any embroiderer can use. We will discuss two of them.

Embroidering on Finished Blanks

By far, the simplest and cheapest method of producing patches is to embroider on finished blanks. As described earlier, blank patches can be purchased from a patch manufacturer then you add the embroidery to complete the process. The challenge is to get the patch onto the machine for sewing. Hooping is virtually impossible and while there are special patch frames available, they typically are designed to hold one specific size of patch and thus offer no versatility for handling a wide range of shapes and sizes.

But never fear, there is a simple method that uses ordinary hoops and materials, plus a touch of digitizing.

Step 1

Scan the patch to be used. Digitize a running stitch around the outside edge of the scanned image. Be sure that the segment starts and stops at the TOP of the patch. Save for use as a patch template.

Step 2

Create a new design file and bring in the patch template file, created in step 1. Merge/Paste/Create the desired logo and/or add lettering where you wish it to sew within the patch. Ensure that the lettering or design has a color change at the beginning. Save this as a patch sew file (single patch).

For runs of more than one patch, you can sew multiple patches in one hoop. Choose a large hoop and determine how many patches can be placed inside of it, without touching each other or the hoop. Create a new design file and plot the location for each patch. Use the copy function to insert the patch sew file (single patch), created in Step 2, in each of the plotted positions. Save this as a patch sew file (multiple patches).

TIP 1 – Pulse users can display actual hoops on screen and use these images to help plot the multiple patch locations.

TIP 2 – If using a contract digitizer, have him set up some outline files of basic patch shapes for you. Then you can re-size them as necessary to create your own patch templates. Thus, when you are doing just basic names, you can set them up yourself, using the MERGE function.

Step 3

Obtain backing material that has an adhesive coating on one side. Hoop the backing with the adhesive side up. Be sure to choose a hoop of adequate size, especially if you are sewing multiple patches. If using peel and stick adhesive backing. Lightly score the protective paper coating and remove it to expose the adhesive portion. Remove only the portion of coating inside the hoop, not outside.

Step 4 Sewing Single Patches: Program your machine to stop at the first color change, which occurs at then end of the outline running stitch. Start the machine and it will sew the outline running stitch and then stop. Place the blank patch down onto the adhesive backing using the outline running stitch as a template. Restart the machine and it will sew the entire logo and then move back to the center of the design. When finished, simply unhoop and tear off the backing. You will notice that the outline running stitch does not attach itself to the patch, rather it stays with the excess backing. Sewing Multiple Patches: Program your machine to stop at the first color change for each individual patch, which occurs at then end of the patch’s outline running stitch. Start the machine and it should sew the outline running stitch for the first patch, then stop. Place a blank patch down onto the adhesive backing using the outline running stitch as a template. Restart the machine and it should sew the entire logo. Upon completion it will move to the location for the next patch and sew the outline running stitch, then stop. This process will repeat until you have finished all of the patches that you programmed to fit in one hoop. When finished, simply unhoop and tear off the backing. You will notice that the outline running stitch does not attach itself to the patches, rather it just goes with the excess backing. NOTE: When sewing multiple patches, do not attempt to remove any patch from the adhesive backing until ALL patches have been sewn.

There are several companies that offer finished blank patches in a wide assortment of shapes, sizes and colors. Prices start at about $0.25/each. Here are some sources:

Creating a Patch Applique

If you only have to do one or two patches per size and shape, then consider using the same basic process, but modify it to sew like an appliqué.

You will need to create three design files for the direct-sew patch: the patch template file, the patch creation file and the patch sew file.

Step 1 Create a full-scale image of the desired patch. Scan or import this file into your digitizing program and digitize a running stitch around the outside edge of the patch image. Be sure that the segment starts and stops at the TOP of the patch. Save for use as a Patch Template.

Step 2

Create a new file and bring in the patch template file that was created in step 1. Merge/Paste/Create the desired logo and/or add lettering where you wish it to sew within the patch. Ensure that the lettering or design has a color change at the beginning. Save this as a patch creation file.

Step 3 Create a new file and merge/paste in the patch template file, created in step 1, which is nothing more than a running stitch outline of the patch. Using the running stitch outline of the patch as a starting point, digitize an appliqué file for this patch. It will consist of three segments: The Outline Stitch - A running stitch outline of the patch. The Tack-down Stitch - A running stitch parallel to and just inside of (no more than 2mm) the outline stitch segment. The Border Stitch – A satin or column stitch. Be sure to assign a separate color change to each segment so that you can force the machine to stop at the beginning of each segment. Save this as a patch appliqué file.

Step 4 Select and hoop a piece of twill fabric suitable for making a patch. Sew the patch creation file on it. The result will be a running stitch outline that defines the boundaries of the patch, followed by the logo itself within the boundaries.

Unhoop and cut out the patch with scissors, carefully following along the running stitch outline.

Step 5 Hoop the garment that is to receive the patch. Program your machine to stop at the first color change, which occurs at then end of the outline running stitch. Start the machine and it will sew the outline running stitch and then stop.

Apply a light coat of adhesive spray to the back of the finished patch (away from the machine.) Place it down onto the garment using the outline running stitch as a template. Allow the adhesive to dry.

Restart the machine and it should sew the tack-down stitch, along the edges of the patch. After the tack-down is complete, it will sew the border stitch along the edges of the patch, providing a secure and neat border to the patch.

Using these two simple methods, you can easily offer patch services to your clients. However, make sure that each job is profitable before taking it on. There is a tendency on the part of the customer to undervalue patches, so you have to make sure they are willing to pay enough to make it worth your while.

For example, if a blank patch cost $0.50 and you were charging $3.50 for it, then you would be netting $3.00 each. If it took you an average of ten minutes to produce each patch, then you would only be generating $18.00 per hour, which is not very impressive or profitable. On the other hand, charging $5.50 each would yield $30.00 per hour, which is much better than the $18.00 per hour, provided it costs less than $30.00 per hour to run your business.

Bottom line, make sure any job, no matter how simple, is worth taking on. Always charge appropriately or you may find yourself busy but bankrupt!