Waterproof Embroidery Techniques I Embroidery Project

Have you ever been caught in a camping tent during a heavy rain shower? Were you amazed that you didn’t get wet considering all the stitched seams, which of course means needle penetrations? (Of course, with some well-worn tents, leaking does occur – been there, done that - but that’s beside the point.) I have weathered many a storm snuggled securely in a sleeping bag, staring up at the network of seams crisscrossing the ceiling, waiting for droplets to slowly form then plunge down onto my face, only to be pleasantly disappointed. Tents are meant to be waterproof, yet they have to be sewn, so this is proof positive that it’s possible to sew on such material without damaging it.

Have you ever been asked to embroider a waterproof or water-repellent item? Some embroiderers jump right on the order without giving it a second thought. But most hesitate, as they realize that every needle penetration breaches the fabric and provides a path for water to pass through. In fact, the majority of embroiderers refuse the job as they don’t want to compromise the garment and thus suffer the wrath of the customer, when they discover that their high-dollar rain suit has been reduced to a high-dollar windbreaker.

But the perception that waterproof materials cannot be embroidered may not be entirely correct. According to Dorothy Cunningham, Production Manager for Zeidel Uniforms, West Palm Beach, FL, it’s perfectly safe to embroider on garments designed to protect the user from the elements. “We’ve been sewing directly on rain suits, foul weather gear, even umbrellas for many years without any problems or complaints. The material itself is very conductive for embroidery.”

As it turns out, most waterproof fabrics close up tightly around the needle penetration after the needle retracts from the fabric, thus there is little or no passage for water to follow. In addition, the threads themselves provide a covering over the penetrations. However, it should be noted that the threads can sometimes cause a wicking affect that results in dampness on the inside of the garment. This is especially true with large jacket-back designs that contain a large number of fill stitches. Dorothy comments on this, “I have seen some dampness develop on the inside of a design, but never to the point where the individual gets wet. It’s not a serious problem. For anyone that is concerned about this, I suggest using a waterproof spray that can be found in camping and outdoor stores. We have found this to be safe with polyester embroidery threads, as it doesn’t cause any discoloration.”

Another concept that some shops use when embroidering on waterproof garments is to apply a patch that covers the backside of the embroidery. These patches are made from materials used to repair outdoor gear and applied with adhesive. Just like the waterproof sprays, such materials can usually be found at camping and outdoor stores.

Since waterproof fabric is a specialized material, it would be logical to assume that it takes a specialized process to embroider on it. In reality, most such fabrics can be treated the same as typical woven goods. Says Dorothy, “when dealing with waterproof fabrics, we typically use a 75/11 sharp point needle, combined with tear-away backing. The real key is proper hooping, as it’s easy to over-stretch the material which results in puckering. Plus, if you are using a sharp point needle and the material is over-stretched in the hoop, it tends to cause larger needle penetrations, which may cause problems down the road. I usually recommend that people new to waterproof garments select a medium ballpoint for their first projects, as there is less chance of causing unwanted damage. Once they are comfortable with the process, then they should switch to the sharp point needle as it does provide better sewing quality.”

Another consideration with waterproof garments is weathering. Obviously they are exposed to rain and dampness, but in many cases they also are bombarded by sunlight. In the case of foul weather gear, salt-water exposure may be yet another factor to contend with. Plus, it’s not unusual for rain gear to be stored wet, which causes yet more harmful conditions to the fabric and embroidery. Thus, it’s imperative that a good quality polyester thread be used for sewing as rayon will not hold up to these harsh conditions.

Dorothy provides some additional advice; “take your time and do the job right, as this type of material is unforgiving should you have to remove stitches and sew the design again. Once a needle penetration is made, its pretty much there for good, meaning it’s quite visible unless covered completely by the second round of sewing.”