Quilt Halloween Twister Blocks Embroidery Project

Read through the instructions thoroughly before beginning and assemble all the materials needed to complete the project. Use the block as a stand-alone in a project, for a pocket on a tote bag, as a part of a pillow, or whatever you like. You’ll be using this block over and over! If a quilt like this project, purchase the batting, a printed panel, backing and border fabrics, etc. These instructions show how to complete the ITH Twister Block, and just generally go over the steps I used to attach the blocks to the printed panel. There are so many wonderful printed panels in quilt shops, so choose what you like. Blocks can be used to add more length and width to a child’s lap quilt such as this one, and borders can also be added to further enlarge a quilt. Blocks like these are a wonderful way to use up some of the smaller pieces of fabric in your stash.

Choose scrap fabrics or purchase fat quarters or fabric yardage that compliments the printed panel. Starch the fabrics and press them well. Cut the number of fabrics needed for each block. The fabrics are cut larger than needed so they are easier to handle and give good coverage.

The photo on the left is how the finished block will look. The photo on the right is what the design looks like.

Print out this picture so you can follow the diagram. The numbers show the order in which the fabrics will be placed. The first block is the only block that starts right side up. The rest of the pieces 2-13 will be placed right side down, the seam is sewn, and then the fabric is flipped right side up, pressed, and temporarily glued in place. The lines shown are the seam lines.

Hoop a piece of fibrous water-soluble stabilizer. Be sure all the pieces are starched and pressed well.

Load the design on the machine. Place the hoop on the machine and stitch Color 1, which is the outline of the block.

Remove the hoop from the machine. Place the center 6” x 6” piece of fabric right side up over the center square. Use a little of the fabric glue stick to hold it in place. Now choose the next four fabrics to go around the center block.

To help with where to place the cut edges of the subsequent fabrics, fold back the edges of the center square along the stitched line and finger press. This will give a line on the right side of the fabric showing where the stitching lines will be. Mark a line ¼” outside of this creased line.

Following the guide, piece 2 is the next to be stitched down. The fabric needs to cover the entire area to the outer edge at the left. The dotted line is the seam line that will be sewn.

Lay the fabric for area 2, right side down, with the raw edge along the marked line; this gives a ¼” seam allowance. Place the hoop back on the machine and stitch Color 2, the seam line.

Here is the sewn seam as indicated by the dotted line. Flip the fabric to the left so that the right side is up. Press the seam with the small iron. Now all the rest of the pieces are done in the same manner: marking, laying the fabric right side down, stitching the seam, and then flipping the fabric to the right side.

The next fabric is to cover area 3. Mark the line ¼” away from the fold line like was done before, place fabric 3 right side down matching the cut line to the marked line. Stitch Color 3, to stitch the seam.

Trim the 2nd and 3rd fabric seam allowances down to 1/4”. Fold the fabrics to the right side and press the seams with the small iron.

Place a dab of the fabric glue down under the fabrics and press them in place.

Now repeat the steps for pieces 4 and 5.

Fold back the center fabric along the stitching line, crease.

Mark ¼” away from the creased line. Place fabric 4 with the cut edge along the marked line. Stitch the seam.

Repeat for fabric 5. Trim the seam allowances to ¼”; press the fabrics into position.

If it helps for measuring and cutting, use a small ruler with a straight edge for marking the placement line and trimming line for the seam allowances.

Place a small amount of glue stick down and press the fabric into place.

Continue the same steps for fabric 5.

Follow the guide for fabric 6. Fold back the fabrics along the line and crease.

Mark a line ¼” beyond the creased line.

Tip: if it is easier for you, the fabrics can be trimmed after marking and then the next fabric placed right side down with the cut edge matching the trimmed edge. To me this adds an extra step, but it may be easier for you.

Choose the next four fabrics. When choosing the fabrics, make sure the same prints are not touching each other; plain fabrics may also be used—they don’t all have to be prints.

Follow the steps to place down the remaining fabrics.

Fabrics can be duplicated, just make sure they are placed around the block in a pleasing manner.

The last seam to stitch is around the whole block, which will tack down all the outer fabric edges.

Remove the piece from the hoop and trim all the way around the block using the preferred seam allowance—1/4” was used for the project. I was doing.

Stitch as many of the ITH Twister blocks needed for the project. I stitched three for the top of the panel,

and three for the bottom. I used left over scraps and yardage to cut the fabrics.

All printed panels differ in their size, so decide where the blocks are to be placed in your project. I decided to place the blocks to match the outer edges of printed panel and then measured and cut plain black fabric to stitch between the blocks.

When stitching the sections together, the outer seamline of the block was used as a guide for stitching.

The panel was squared up.

The block sections were stitched to the top and bottom of the quilt. Small borders were added to further enlarge the quilt. Do what you’d like for the size you need.

Quilt and bind your project as desired. Please check out the quilting designs listed in the Related Products Links to quilt your project in the hoop!