Digitizing for Cap Production Embroidery Project

Caps are the most challenging, frustrating product that we decorate! This is why I always recommend that digitizers produce separate designs of the same logo for caps and crests even if the finished product is the same size.

One of the factors that makes caps hard to embroider is that there are so many types of headwear. Some are easy to work with while others present a variety of problems. They are, however, all popular in their own realm.

In my book, the easiest styles are five-panel caps, which are similar to embroidering on flats, bucket caps, and unstructured caps. The trick is to use a cap frame that securely holds the cap in place. It also means using a proper backing and enough of it to allow the frame to hold the product firm.

Not so easy headwear includes six-panel caps, visors, stocking caps, and hats of all kinds. Hat bands, which are generally cut on the stretchy bias of the fabric, provide an additional challenge. In spite of the difficulties, caps are a great source of income, and it’s best to learn to overcome the challenges.

Digitizing for Success

There are two rules for digitizing on six-panel caps. First, start the design at the bottom of the cap where it is most securely held by the frame and work your way up. Likewise, start from the center where the seam creates bulk and sturdiness and work out to each side, one side at a time. These two rules will result in more color changes and trims than if you digitized the design in one fell swoop, but the perfect registration and excellent runnability will make the extra time and effort worthwhile.

One of the toughest types of cap to embroider is a six-panel.   Another problem with six-panel caps occurs when a fill pattern is placed on top of the center seam. The thread falls into the seam creating a valley and preventing a nice smooth fill throughout that portion of the design. This problem is easily rectified by digitizing a column over the center seam, then placing the fill pattern. The column levels the surface and helps to eliminate thread breaks as well as providing a superior appearance. When using this technique, it is imperative that the embroiderer start with the needle dead center over the seam and that the digitizer has the design centered. Otherwise, the column will not fall on the seam, resulting in a hill in the fill pattern that is worse than the original problem.

Fill patterns with a diagonal stitch direction should be avoided on six-panel caps. Because the sides of the cap are so unstable in the hoop, diagonal stitches will push the fill outside of the border causing a problem that cannot be corrected by your embroiderer. It can only be corrected at the digitizing board. Fills are best going straight across but can run up and down. I find that up and down fills, especially over the center seam, do not cover as well, and our machines do not like them. We have more thread breaks with a fill that runs vertically than with the same pattern run horizontally.

Soft caps, such as five-panel, bucket, and unstructured caps are not bound by the two golden rules listed above. Because they are softer, they are more easily forced “flat” in the cap frame, and with proper backing and good solid grip, can be stitched with designs digitized for flat production. However, the rules for six-panel caps will give you superior production on these, too.

Visors hooped in a cap frame have special problems. First of all, the working space is only about an inch tall, although the design can be as wide as the hoop allows. Secondly, the top of the visor has virtually no support in a conventional frame.

Communication with the customer is the key to success for embroidering this item. He must be convinced that the same design that will work on a cap will definitely NOT work here.

Simple designs are best, and small ones are a must. Up and out are the two words that work here, as well. Stability for visors can be provided by hooping backing that is large enough to reach all sides of the hoop at the same time as you hoop the visor. Another option for visors is a flat hoop with sticky backing. This provides more work space on the visor and turns it into an easier-to-work-with flat substrate.