Help! I Have a Hole! Embroidery Project

Holes often occur when removing embroidery stitches. Others are the result of a slip of the embroidery scissors while trimming excess threads or removing the stabilizer. Of course we all make holes occasionally when embroidering, but you can improve your odds by following these guidelines.

• Reduce the chances that embroidery removal will result in a hole if you use a cutaway stabilizer rather than a tearaway stabilizer during the embroidery process. This layer gives you a sturdy buffer between the garment and the stitches that you are removing.
• Avoid nicking the fabric when trimming stabilizer by always holding the fabric so you can see the reverse side of the garment and the reverse side of the stabilizer.
• Use short blade scissors, 5-inches or less, when removing stabilizer or trimming excess threads.

Assess the damage

To determine your repair method, consider

• The size of the hole
• Whether you can pull the fabric edges together
• Whether you will be able to apply embroidery over the damaged area.

In some cases, even if it was not originally planned, an additional motif can be added to cover the hole. For example, in a floral scene, you might add a bee or butterfly. On the other hand, if your embroidery consists of a repeat or symmetrical pattern, an added design would be distracting and inappropriate. In this instance, you must try to repair the fabric as invisibly as possible.

Determine the method

Where the hole is small enough to pull the fabric edges together, consider these methods:

Darning

In the case of a small hole where embroidery applied over the top, consider darning the hole together with embroidery thread. Choose a thread color that matches the garment closely and use a hand sewing needle to pull the fabric edges together. Use as few stitches as possible to securely join the fabric, so that it will not be bulky beneath your embroidery.

Fusible Interfacing

Another remedy for small holes is to pull the fabric together and iron a fusible stabilizer to the reverse side of the fabric. If embroidery will be applied on top of the repair, almost any fusible interfacing product will work well. Choose one that has a melting point that is compatible with your fabric content. For example, a high melt point fusible is not appropriate for delicate, synthetic fabrics.

Polymide web

Again, if the hole is small enough to pull the fabric together, you can use a lightweight fabric patch and polymide web. Polymide web is the web-like fusible that you have possibly used to make a hem, or otherwise join two pieces of fabric together using a household iron. Some brand names for this type of product include Stitch Witchery™, Heat n Bond™ and Steam a Seam™.

Select the fabric that you will bond to the web for its compatibility to the face fabric that you are repairing. For instance, a soft tricot could be a good choice when repairing a hole in a lightweight jersey knit. A broadcloth patch would be suitable for most lightweight woven fabrics.

007 bonding agent

If embroidery will not be applied on top, you will need a more invisible repair. The best methods use a permanent, powdered fusible adhesive, such as those used in preparing appliqués. It can be ordered from most large mail order sewing supply houses. On woven fabrics, first clean up the edges of the hole by trimming any frayed threads. Next, cut a piece of fabric that matches the damaged fabric, cutting it slightly larger than the hole. If you are working with a finished garment, look for an inconspicuous place to take a small piece of fabric, such as a hem, facing or seam allowance.

Using a paintbrush, moisten the outer edges of the right side of the patch fabric with water. Sprinkle the powdered bonding agent over the moistened area, and the granules will adhere to the moistened area. Lay the patch on a pressing sheet, with the adhesive side facing up. With right side up, move the hole around over the patch, like a frame. Lay the hole over the patch, when it looks like you have the most invisible placement of the fabric, based on weave or pattern alignment. Blow away any excess powder that is showing, and with a pressing sheet on top, press into position. Turn the piece over, blow away excess powder and press again from the reverse side, again using the pressing sheet.

Knits and woolen repairs

Using the same granular powder, you can make very invisible repairs on some knitted fabrics and woolen fabrics. A little experience will tell you when this alternative method is appropriate. For beginners, it’s easiest to perfect your technique on solid, light colors such as white or beige.

For this method, you will again need a small piece of the fabric that is being repaired, taken from a hidden area of the garment. This time, however, instead of making a patch, cut the repair fabric into very small pieces, until it is fluffy. To begin, roll the fibers between your fingers, forming a ball. Using scissors, cut it again and again, rolling the fibers into a ball repeatedly, and then cutting through the ball. When it is almost downy, place it in a small bowl and mix with a small amount of the bonding granules. Because the granules are white, you should take care to keep the ratio of granules low, particularly with richly colored fabrics.

With an ironing sheet protecting your ironing board, place the fabric to be repaired wrong side up on the ironing surface. Place enough of the fiber and granule mixture into the hole to fill it. Sprinkle additional granules on top of the mixture, and place lightweight interfacing or fabric on top of the hole. Remember, you are still working from the wrong side at this point. Apply heat for a few seconds. Turn the fabric over and heat from the top for a few seconds.

Other solutions

1. Make a really invisible repair by applying an appliqué over the damaged area.

2. Make a pocket or other decorative “patch” to cover the area.

3. Remove as much of the stitching as possible and restitch the design in a larger size on top of the original, covering the hole.