Overcoming Cap Anxiety: Part VI Embroidery Project

Though rare, you may get requests for cap bill embroidery. First of all realize that some of those fancy caps that feature embroidery that comes down the front of the crown and then seamlessly merges onto the bill were done via a piece program. That means that the individual components of the cap were embroidered before the cap was assembled. You will not be able to achieve the same result, unless you are a cap manufacturer, so understand that limitation. However, within reason, you can embroider on the bill of a cap.

The first step is to determine whether the bill can by physically penetrated by the needle. Most bills are constructed of constructed of cardboard, then covered by fabric, which responds well to the embroidery process. On the other hand, some bills have an internal core of PVC plastic, which will break the needle. You can usually tell whether the bill is composed of cardboard or PVC, simply by flexing it. Cardboard bends easier and can be reshaped. PVC tends to hold its original shape, even after bending and usually isn’t as flexible. Also, keep in mind that the caps with the pre-flexed bills can be very difficult to work with, as the bill was intended to remain in a curved shape permanently.

Once you have determined if you can sew the bill, you must calculate how much area is available for embroidery. Keep in mind that the crown of the cap will be sticking up in front of the needle case area, and the front panel will run in to it you if try to sew too close to the back area of the bill. For a quick test, hold the bill in position as if it were hooped and mounted on the machine. Move it in towards the machine and note where the needles are when the front panel of the cap is within ½” of making contact with either the needle case or the take-up levers. (Remember that the take-up levers move up and DOWN.) This will be the limit of the backside of the sewing field.

The next step is hooping. The most effective way is to use a clamping device such as one of the models made by EMS/HoopTech. This will allow you to easily secure and support the bill. If it is pre-flexed bill, the clamp should be able to flatten it so as to create a flat sewing surface. If you don’t wish to invest in a clamping system, you can hoop a piece of adhesive backing in a large tubular frame – 30X30 – then press the bill down onto the adhesive surface. This will hold it in place for sewing and can be removed easily upon completion. However, the pre-flexed bills do not work well with this method, as the adhesive backing is typically not strong enough to hold the bill in a flattened position.

Finally choose a #75/11 sharp point needle (possibly an 80/12 sharp needle) and run your machine speed a little bit slower – 500 to 600spm.

Using these basic techniques, you should be able to produce quality embroidery on the bill of most caps and visors, thereby expanding your product offerings for your customers.