Designs specifically digitized for caps will give you great results for your cap frames. Three designs are presented for wide cap frames and three for the front of caps only. Get yourself low or mid-profile caps and enjoy stitching them now.
Follow your machines manual to properly set up your cap frame. All thumb screws must be tight. Correct hooping is important to the success of your design.
Step 1:
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The wide cap hoop has three red dots to help you keep your hat straight on the hoop. One is on the bill holder, one on sweatband holder and one on the wire band that holds the cap to the hoop. For now, flip the top bill holder to the back.
Step 2:
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If using a wide cap frame cut tear away stabilizer 4” x 22”. If you tear away stabilizer is very thin use two strips. Find the center of the strip and attach it all the way around the hat hoop. This hat hoop has holes in the bottom to tuck the ends of the strip into to hold the stabilizer in place.
Step 3:
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If using a Front only cap frame cut your tear away stabilizer 4” x 10” and lay it on the cap frame. If your cap frame has little prongs to help hold it in place, push the prongs through the stabilizer
Step 4:
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Remove the cardboard shape keeper if one is inside your cap.
Step 5:
Pull the sweatband out from inside the cap and open the straps on the back of the caps.
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Step 6:
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Place the cap on the cap frame pulling the sweatband forward all the way into the hoop. Align the center of the cap with the line on the sweatband holder.
Step 7:
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Bring the wire band across the cap. The inside of the wire band goes on the inside of the bill, the notched outside band needs to sit on the side seams, where the sweatband is sewed to the cap; across the top seam where the bill is sewn to the crown; and across the side seam on the far side of the cap. That last section is the trickiest one as just before the latch you must fold the sweatband end out of the way so that you can close the clasp of the frame.
Step 8:
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This cap frame has a release tab so that you can rotate the cap on the hooper to put the bulldog clips on the ends of the cap. If you tucked the ends of the stabilizer into the holes of the hat hoop pull it out of those holes now. It makes it easier to apply the bulldog clips.
Step 9:
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When applying the bulldog clips make sure you are not pulling the cap down towards the frame. This not only wrinkles the sides of the cap, but also takes the ease out of the crown which will affect the stitching.
Step 10:
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Smooth the sides of the cap back to the bottom bars as straight as possible. Place two bulldog clips with the wire clamps facing to the inside of the frame. If the wire clips face the outside of the frame they can interfere with the turning of the cap when it is being stitched.
Step 11:
Rotate the hat hoop to place to bulldog clips on the other side of the cap. These clips should face the inside of the cap frame too.
Step 12:
Rotate the cap hoop to its upright position. Pushing the bill of the cap slightly towards the bill holder, slide the bill holder over the bill of the cap and push it down to its final position.
Step 13:
There are three cut out rectangles in the metal of the hat hoop that must be pushed in securely to the hat frame driver. As I can’t photograph those on the machine I though it best to show them to you on the inside of the frame. Make sure you hear the two top and bottom center rectangles click into the white rollers of the cap frame driver.
Step 14:
Load the cap frame driver following your manufacturer’s directions. If there is an extra little riser to cover the needle opening be sure to use that too. Load the cap hoop onto the machine.
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Step 15:
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Transfer the design into the machine. On this machine the software automatically turns the design upside down as it knows it has the cap frame on. If your machine doesn’t do this be sure to turn the design upside down.
Step 16:
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On the next software screen you have the ability to move the design slightly closer to the bill of the cap. I moved the design as low to the bill as it would go and then backed up just two little steps as I did not want to push the limits.
Step 17:
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Slow the machine down for the best results on caps. I ran this at 600 stitches a minute. The cap front will stitch out in its color changes, then each side of the cap will sew with its own color changes. Do not let the software reorder the color changes to avoid trims as you will have loss of registration.
Step 18:
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Remove the cap from the hoop and tear away the excess stabilizer. Trim any long tails inside the cap.
Step 19:
Congratulations your first Plant Lady Cap is complete. Better sew out a few of them, all your Plant Lady friends will want one.
Award winning Digitizer, Embroidery Educator, Author and a Consultant to the Industry, Pat Williams has 30 years of experience in the embroidery industry. Pat has won multiple awards for her digitizing expertise including the 2007 Impressions Awards Grand Championship, Best of Show as well as the 1st and 2nd Place Awards. Pat’s love of digitizing has afforded her the opportunity to write numerous articles for Impressions magazine in the United States and Images Magazine in Europe. In 2001 Pat was named “Embroidery Educator of the Year.” For many years Pat taught digitizing seminars at the ISS Shows in Long Beach, CA and for Compucon software. She now resides in Tucson, AZ.