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Are you struggling to get a client’s design to work on piqué fabric? Try using an appliqué.
Let’s face it, knit fabrics can be difficult to embroider, especially when faced with a design that is highly detailed or has small lettering. When none of my usual tricks work, I have found that using a generic appliqué shape underneath the design makes my job easier and results in a happier customer.
By using a woven fabric on top of the knit, you eliminate the problem of stitches sinking into the fabric or creating holes from cramming too many stitches in the same place. An appliqué background also can add depth, dimension, and texture to a design making it more eye-catching and visually appealing.
The first step is to evaluate the design for its shape and problem areas. For example, with a highly detailed design, you may want to embroider the entire logo and lettering on an appropriate appliqué shape. Other designs may require that only part of the logo be backed with an appliqué piece.
Because this design had extremely fine detail on the leaves, it made it impractical for sewing on a piqué knit as the thread would simply sink into the loosely knit fabric. By using a rectangular appliqué piece behind the logo, the detail could be preserved. Photo courtesy of Grand Slam Designs
I was once asked to replicate a highly detailed crest for a computer company called Hackmasters. To accurately reproduce the design required layers of stitches with extremely fine detail on the leaves that bordered the outer edges. There’s no way a knit would ever support a design of this density. I chose a rectangular-shaped appliqué that allowed me to sew a crisp, clean crest to which I added stock lettering above and below.
For this logo, the large, bold BCN initial embroidered just fine on piqué, however the smaller lettering at the bottom posed a challenge. The solution was to marry an oval appliqué with the small lettering and the larger lettering that was embroidered directly on the shirt. Photo courtesy of Grand Slam Designs
Another job where I encountered difficulties was a design for Business Computer Network. This logo had the initials BCN is a big, bold typeface, and then underneath spelled out the company name in small letters. Since the BCN was large enough that it would not cause problems, I chose to sew only the small lettering on an oval-shaped appliqué piece. I then overlapped the BCN on top of the oval marrying both components of the logo into one complete whole.
This logo combines direct embroidery with appliqué. The fine columns needed for the gymnast’s body were done on a triangle piece, which fit perfectly with the shape created by the gymnast’s body. Then larger lettering was sewn along the outside. Photo courtesy of Grand Slam Designs
The challenge presented by a logo I was asked to create for a gymnastics team was the thin columns used in creating the shape of a gymnast doing a hand stand. Since the position of the gymnast’s body suggested a triangle, I used that shape to provide support for the graphic and added stock lettering to the outside of the shape.
Appliquès are a great solution for solving many challenges presented when embroidering on piquè knits. Start experimenting with how you can combine standard shapes to complement and enhance your client’s logos.
Barbara Geer, Creative Director/Digitizer, Grand Slam Designs, an embroidery stock design and contract digitizing operation, has been in the decorated apparel industry since 1990. She is a popular speaker at commercial decorated apparel and home embroidery events. She also is a frequent contributor to commercial and home embroidery publications such as EMB, Stitches, and Printwear. You may reach Barbara at 218-222-3501; e-mail [email protected] or visit her Web site at www.grandslamdesigns.com.
