Selecting the Best Thread for the Job: Polyester or Rayon

Selecting the Best Thread for the Job: Polyester or Rayon Embroidery Project

By   Deborah Jones   on   July 10, 2005
Description

Your embroidery quality is dependent on selecting the fiber that is most appropriate for the job. Polyester or rayon?

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Your embroidery quality is dependent on selecting the fiber that is most appropriate for the job. Polyester or rayon?

When embroiderers are asked what kind of thread they use, they often respond with a brand name. Certainly brand names are important, because the quality of your thread is integral to the quality of your embroidery. But within a specific brand, there are choices of fiber type, and your embroidery quality is also dependent on selecting the fiber that is most appropriate for job. Using the thread type that is best for the job will help it stitch more smoothly, and increase the longevity of the embroidery. Let's look at the major thread types and when each is the preferred choice.

Polyester

 
Polyester is colorfast and resists abraison and fading.
 

Polyester thread had a bad reputation in the past, but today's polyesters more closely resemble the properties of the best-selling fiber, rayon. Why did polyester thread get a bad rap in its early years? It was stretchy, which caused looped stitches, it was a bit thicker than rayon, and it didn't have the same sheen as rayon. Polyester was available in limited colors, and from limited sources. Polyester is colorfast to bleach, resists abrasion and fading from sunlight. It is also less expensive and doesn't break as easily as its more supple cousin rayon. So why does rayon embroidery thread continue to sell well?

Rayon

 
Rayon is a softer thread than polyester.
 

Rayon has long been a favorite in embroidery companies of all kinds, including multi-head, single head and even high-production schiffli operations. This lustrous natural fiber thread is made from cellulose, a wood product. Because it is a natural fiber, rayon thread isn't as stiff as polyester. As you can imagine, a softer thread is more compatible with soft fabrics, such as knit shirts. The stitches lay in prettier, and rayon embroidery generally looks softer than polyester. Rayon is colorfast under most laundry conditions, with the exception of the use of chlorine bleach. Although it doesn't have the same durability as polyester, it will last for the life of the garment, remaining vibrant and colorful.

Making the Choice

Polyester thread is often used on caps.

Most embroiderers make a decision to use either rayon or polyester as their primary thread of choice, and supplement as needed with the other variety. For example, some embroiderers select rayon as their primary thread, and use polyester on uniforms, where colorfastness is a concern. Some embroiderers use polyester only on caps to reduce thread breakage.

 
Rayon is often used on more delicate items.
 

On the other hand, some embroiderers select polyester and use rayon on certain delicate items, where the stronger polyester fiber could actually create damage to a garment if a stitching problem occurred. Be aware that all neon colors are made of either polyester or acrylic, because these are the only fibers compatible with neon dyes. One solution is to purchase thread in the smaller put-ups, such as 1,000 to 1,500 yard spools. This allows a wider variety of color and thread type with a minimal investment. Today, most thread companies offer both fiber types, and the color selection is comparable in either thread type.

Your most common job types will help determine the thread type that is best for you, but generally, if you do a lot of knits, such as golf shirts, you may be more pleased with rayon overall. On the other hand, if you embroider mostly caps, polyester is probably best for you. Remain flexible and willing to use the thread type that is best suited to a particular job, and you will see the benefits in better productivity and repeat business.

Meet the Author: Deborah Jones
Deborah Jones
Deborah Jones is a commercial and home embroiderer with 31 years experience in the computerized embroidery field. She is the founding editor of Club Ed, an educational newsletter for home embroiderers, and vice-president of education for Great Notions.
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