FSL 3D Ice Skate Ornament Embroidery Project

By Ramona Baird on October 07, 2019

SKILL LEVELSome Experience
TIME REQUIRED08:00

Description

Create a charming 3D freestanding lace ice skate ornament to enhance your winter holiday decorations. This delicate piece is perfect for adding a touch of elegance to any Christmas tree. Step-by-step instructions are included.

Step of

Materials

Project Preview Video

Materials

Two layers of fibrous water-soluble stabilizer for each

White 40wt. polyester embroidery thread

Silver metallic embroidery thread (Yenmet S-1 Platinum used for the project skate)

White bobbin thread

Hot glue gun and glue sticks

PDF printouts

Plastic wrap (like Saran Wrap Cling)

Board to pin into (old cutting board works well)

Old quilting pins

Applique pins

White 5/8” satin ribbon: 1-4” long, 2- 6” long

1- Styrofoam piece 5” x ¾” x ¾”

1- white fur piece 8” x 2”

FSL embroidery design files (six of them)

TerialMagic

Glue to hold fabric to Styrofoam

Several sheets of white gift wrap tissue paper

Winter holiday pics like pinecone, holly, pine, berries, etc. to decorate boot

2 yards silver metallic ¼” ribbon to lace boot and tie bow

2 silver jingle bells

Designs used in this project

https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/ramona-baird/stockdesign/1/3dfslskate

Final Product: What You Will Create

Preface:

I love winter. I know, I’m one of those silly people who loves the first snowfall, comfort food, warm comfy sweaters, the smell of a wood-burning fireplace, and the sound of ice skate blades scraping on the ice. As a kid my dad would literally have to drag me off the ice. No Dorothy Hamill was I, but I just loved the crisp air and the feeling of racing along which felt like flying.

The kid in me wanted some new ice skates when we moved back to cold country but my husband said I was probably too old to be skating and I might “get broken”. I disagreed, but to satisfy my need to have a pretty new skate, I decided to digitize one!

Stitch and assemble a pretty white skate with silver trim, a white fur cuff, and jingle bells. To me it represents all the best of winter; I hope you enjoy making it as much as I did creating, digitizing, and making it.

Six designs files are needed, which are included in the download:
3DFSLSKATE01-Blade (stitch 2, mirrored)
3DFSLSKATE02-Boot Inside
3DFSLSKATE03-Boot Outside
3DFSLSKATE04-Back
3DFSLSKATE05-Sole (stitch 2, mirrored)
3DFSLSKATE06-Tongue

Because the design file numbers can be confusing, the parts of the skate will be referred to as their part-name instead of the number so they are more easily identified.

Please be advised, stitching time is approximate because machine speeds vary. The time does not include drying and assembly time.

Step 1:

Read through the instructions thoroughly before beginning and assemble all the materials needed to complete the project. For each file stitched, hoop two layers of fibrous water-soluble stabilizer and sew pieces regular white bobbin thread for the entire skate. Use the white polyester thread for all the main parts of the skate, changing to the silver metallic thread when stated for the Blade and Boot Outside. For each skate, load the designs on the machine and embroider 1 boot outside, 1 boot inside, 1 tongue, 1 back, 2 blades-mirrored, and 2 soles- mirrored. As stated in the color sequence, use silver metallic thread as directed. If ganging up the designs in a larger hoop, leave room between pieces for proper stabilization. Stitch all the pieces for the skate.

Step 2:

Print out paper templates of each of the design pieces, mirroring the soles and blades. Generally, cut out the paper and lay the pieces on a surface that can have pins poked into it, like an old cutting board. Cover the paper pieces with a sheet or two of plastic and secure the plastic in place.

Step 3:

Working with each piece individually, soak the embroidered piece in water just until the stabilizer has been dissolved (you want most of the stabilizer left in the piece). Dab the piece dry with a paper towel just to remove the excess water. You want the piece to be fairly damp so it is workable for blocking.

Step 4:

Lay the piece over the corresponding paper template.

Step 5:

Block each piece. Use old quilting pins to secure the embroidered piece over the paper to block the piece. Place pins at key points and make sure the outline of the embroidered piece matches the outline of the printed template exactly. Position pins at an angle to securely hold the piece in place.

Step 6:

Repeat the steps of rinsing and pinning the remaining embroidered pieces over the paper templates to block them.

Step 7:

Let the pieces dry overnight

Step 8:

The dried piece should be stiff

Step 9:

yet pliable. If too much stabilizer was rinsed out, leave the pieces in place on the plastic and spray them with TerialMagic to stiffen the pieces. Let dry overnight, again.

Step 10:

The tab-edges of the boot pieces and the blade pieces should bend easily, but the tabs should be stiff.

Step 11:

For each skate you should have the boot inside, the boot outside, the tongue, 2-mirrored blade pieces, the back, and two mirrored-soles.

Step 12:

To begin assembly, the boot will be sewn together at the center front. The pieces will be aligned

Step 13:

and the bottom seams matched

Step 14:

and sewn to the middle, then the middle on the pieces matched,

Step 15:

all the way to the top.

Step 16:

To do this, cut a strip of satin ribbon 4” long and fold the ends in ½”.

Step 17:

Beginning with the left side of the skate. Lay the top of the skate right at the edge of the top fold of the ribbon. Align the seam of the skate in the middle of the ribbon.

Step 18:

Sew the skate to the ribbon by stitching to the left side of the satin stitch using a 2.5mm stitch length and

Step 19:

keeping the seam in the middle of the ribbon. Adjust the fold at the bottom if needed so it aligns with the satin stitch at the bottom of the boot.

Step 20:

Now position the other side of the boot in line with and butted up to the part just sewn.

Step 21:

You may wish to use tweezers or an awl to help hold the piece right next to the piece already sewn.

Step 22:

This time, sew along the right side of the satin stitch. Sew up to the point where the seams start to spread apart and stop with the needle in the work.

Step 23:

Continue to butt the pieces together and stitch.

Step 24:

Be sure the satin stitches at the top meet. Now go back and sew on the other side of the satin stitch for each piece.

Step 25:

Because you are sewing a straight seam and the seams are really curved, the pieces will begin to curl behind the needle.

Step 26:

This is what it should look like—a nice curve at the center front seam.

Step 27:

Now the same process will be used to sew the back piece to the skate back sections. Cut 2 pieces of ribbon 6” long and turn the edges under ½”.

Step 28:

Begin on one side of the skate back and stitch the skate-back down the middle of the ribbon, again matching the folded edges to the top and bottom of the skate back.

Step 29:

Adjust the fold at the other edge if necessary so it aligns with the satin stitch.

Step 30:

Repeat for the other back edge.

Step 31:

Now will be to sew the skate back satin edge over the skate back edge.

Step 32:

Aligning the top edges, position the skate back satin stitch over the skate back edge—the satin edge of the skate-back should just cover the zig-zag edge of the skate boot.

Step 33:

Sew along the inside edge of the satin stitch on the skate back piece through all layers.

Step 34:

Align the remaining skate back to the skate boot section at the top and bottom.

Step 35:

Working from the inside of the skate, sew the sections together through all layers. Now go back and sew along the other edge of the satin stitch on each side.

Step 36:

Keep the piece inside out so it is easier to work and now sew along both outer satin edges of the skate back; turn the piece right side out.

Step 37:

To sew in the tongue, gently fold the bottom of the tongue, wrong sides together, and place a pin along the fold.

Step 38:

Align the pin to the center front of the skate boot, extending the tongue top about 3/8” beyond the top of the boot.

Step 39:

Sew the tongue in place along the curve at the top section of the boot front curve (be careful not to catch any other sections of the skate).

Step 40:

Now will be to position the inner sole inside the boot. Be sure the long curve goes toward the outside (swirl side) of the boot. Both soles will eventually be placed with wrong sides together.

Step 41:

Gently fold the sole back, right sides together, in half

Step 42:

and place a pin in the fold. The pin is in the wrong side of the inner sole.

Step 43:

Align the pin to the middle tab at the bottom of the skate back.

Step 44:

Note: the satin edge of the insole should be aligned to the bottom satin edge of the boot when the tabs are glued in place.

Step 45:

Heat up the glue gun. Place a small dab of hot glue to the underside of the tab and hold the tab in place until the glue dries.

Step 46:

Work the tabs one at a time, gluing them to the bottom of the insole. Be sure the glue does not extend beyond the tabs toward the satin edge or when sewing on the bottom sole, the glue will interfere with the stitching.

Step 47:

Continue gluing all the tabs around the insole

Step 48:

until all the tabs are in place.

Step 49:

Now will be to sew on the bottom sole. Fold the back part of the bottom sole in half, wrong sides together and place a pin in the fold. Align the pin to the middle tab at the back of the skate.

Step 50:

Place pins through the bottom sole and skate,

Step 51:

aligning the edges of the soles together. It may be helpful to place a very small amount of hot glue on the tab to hold the bottom sole in place instead—see what works best for you.

Step 52:

With a hand sewing needle and the same embroidery thread used to stitch the skate, bring the needle down from the top of the skate

Step 53:

to the same point on the bottom sole of the skate. Use a ladder stitch

Step 54:

and sew all around the skate to sew the soles together.

Step 55:

Next will be to place the blades together and glue them to the bottom of the skate.

Step 56:

Find the center points of the front and back of the boot; place pins at the center points.

Step 57:

It is easier to affix the blade if the boot is balanced on a spray can.

Step 58:

With the wrong sides of the blades facing each other, position and glue the blade tabs together one on top of the other; let the glue set.

Step 59:

Now place glue on the bottom of the tabs and center the blade on the skate, using the pins as a guide to center the blades.

Step 60:

Hold the glued tab on the bottom sole until the glue sets.

Step 61:

Spread an even layer of Styrofoam glue along the side edges of the Styrofoam piece.

Step 62:

Sandwich the Styrofoam between the blades, aligning the bottom of the Styrofoam to the bottom of the blade.

Step 63:

Use applique pins to further secure the blade pieces to the Styrofoam. Position the pins in several places along the satin edge of the blades so they are as inconspicuous as possible yet will help hold the Styrofoam in place. Let everything dry overnight.

Step 64:

When cutting the fur pieces, draw the dimensions on the back of the fur piece and cut the backing layer only.

Step 65:

The fur will come apart and create as little mess as possible.

Step 66:

Fold the fur piece in half to find the center and then position the center to the center back of the skate.

Step 67:

Create soft folds along the fur and pin the fur in place. The fur should be seated about ¼-3/8” inside the skate edge.

Step 68:

The short sides of the fur edge should extend just slightly beyond the skate boot front. Pin and then and tack the fur in place through the skate boot.

Step 69:

Crumple up the tissue and stuff it into the boot to help shape the boot beginning with the toe, then the back, and then the center section and up toward the top. Stuff it to about the top of the upper most eyelet; the skate should be firmly stuffed. Lace the skate with the silver ribbon, tie a bow at the top and then attach one bell to each end of the ribbon strands; knot each end of the ribbon to hold the bell in place. Cut off the excess ribbon about 1.5” below the bell and tuck the ends of the ribbon under the side of the boot front edge. Insert pics into the top of the skate and use for a table decoration, tree, or mantel decoration.

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Meet the Author: Ramona Baird

Ramona Baird has been in the embroidery industry for over 23 years. She and her husband owned a commercial and retail embroidery store in Arizona for many years. She is an experienced digitizer having been mentored by award-winners Pat Williams and Lindee Goodall. Ramona is a contributor to “Creative Machine Embroidery” magazine having 5 covers to her credit. Ramona has worked for Wilcom America and served many years as Education Director for the American Sewing Guild. With a degree in fashion design, she is able to design and execute patterns which Pat Williams says are “out of the box” in creativity and application. Ramona likes to challenge the boundaries of embroidery and bring new and exciting designs, ideas, and projects to EmbroideryDesigns.com. She wants embroiderers of all levels to increase their skills and enjoyment in using their embroidery machine for gift-making and personal pleasure.

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