Organize and safely travel with your jewellery tucked into this pretty little pouch. Open it up to reveal a wonderful 3 dimensional surprise!
Step 1:
Fabric Preparation:
Cut pattern pieces out on outer lines. Overlap grey areas on quarter patterns A and B and tape together.
All fabrics are folded, right sides together. Patterns are then placed on the fold. Pin from center out.
Step 2:
Outer fabric - cut one 12" circle (Quarter patterns A and B). Lining Fabric - cut one 12" circle (Quarter patterns A and B). Inner Pouch Fabric - cut two 9" circles.
Step 3:
Find and mark at center of right side of ONE 9” (pouch fabric) circle with a small piece of masking tape.
Step 4:
Piping Fabric - cut one strip 40” long x 1¼” wide on the bias. Two or more smaller pieces can be joined to get the correct length.
Step 5:
Bobbin Preparation:
Wind a bobbin of each of the following: 1 for each of the 2 shades of flower embroidery thread.
Step 6:
1 for each color to match each of the fabrics used (outer, lining, pouch).
Step 7:
Freestanding Embroidery: Load both designs Bee003a and b to your embroidery machine.
Sewing Sequence: Bee003a - freestanding flower
1. Lt. color for flower - petals (sew with matching bobbin)
2. Dk. colour for flower - petal borders and placement lines (sew with matching bobbin)
Step 8:
Hoop 2 layers of water soluble stabilizer. Insert matching bobbin of 1st color for flower. (Bee003a). Sew first color for flower. Insert bobbin for 2nd color for flower. Sew 2nd color for flower.
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Step 9:
Remove finished flower from hoop, cut excess stabilizer from around flower. Hold under running warm water to dissolve stabilizer.
Step 10:
Blot dry with paper towel. Shape edges. Set aside.
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Step 11:
Direct Embroidery (Leaves & Flower Placement)
Sewing Sequence: Bee003b - direct embroidery
1. Green - leaves
**place flower**
2. Gold - petal details
3. Dark Gold - flower center
Step 12:
Note: If you are using a fabric with a nap (velvet, velour, faux suede) for the inner pouch fabric (recommended) hooping the fabric can damage the soft pile. Follow the steps for "unhooped" fabric. If you are using a fabric that can easily be hooped without damage, follow the steps for "hooped" fabric.
Step 13:
Unhooped Fabric - velvet, velour, etc.
Insert bobbin with thread to match pouch fabric.
Hoop sticky stabilizer. With peelable backing side up. Score a 3” x 3” square from the centre with a pin. Peel back square to reveal sticky surface.
Step 14:
Lay (masking tape) marked inner pouch fabric over hoop. Press center to sticky stabilizer and smooth fabric from center out in all directions to secure for embroidery. Line up mark on tape with the needle.
Step 15:
Remove tape and sew first color in sequence (leaves). Position freestanding flower with crosshair directly under the needle. The triangle should be pointing upwards. Hold flower by the tip of a petal for the first few stitches. Sew remaining color stops to secure flower. With stabilizer still hooped, gently pull fabric and embroidery to release.
Step 16:
Hooped Fabric
Hoop fabric with marked tape as close to center as possible. Slide one piece of tear-away stabilizer under hoop. Line up mark on tape with the needle. Remove tape and sew first color in sequence (leaves). Position freestanding flower with crosshair directly under the needle. The triangle should be pointing upwards. Hold flower by the tip of a petal for the first few stitches. Sew remaining colour stops to secure flower. Remove fabric from hoop, turn over and carefully pull any excess stabilizer from around the leaves.
Step 17:
Inner Pouch
Change to regular sewing or 1/4" seam foot. Place 2 inner pouch (2 small circles) right sides together and pin.
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Step 18:
Use a 1/4" seam allowance to sew the 2 pieces together leaving a 2" opening to turn right side out. Turn right side out and press seam. Hand stitch the 2” opening closed. Set aside, we will come back to this later!
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Step 19:
Piping
To make the piping, start by inserting a bobbin of the color you will be sewing with. If you don’t have a long enough piece of fabric on the bias, join two pieces together.
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Step 20:
Attach piping foot to your sewing machine. With right sides out, fold fabric around cording. Place on the sewing machine with the cording trapped in the groove on the left of the foot and the fabric edges to the right. Leave about an inch out of the back of the machine for slack.
Sew along the cording on the fabric. The groove on the foot will keep the cording in place. Be sure to slowly feed the cording and fabric through keeping the fabric edges together.
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Step 21:
Construction:
Fold outer fabric in half, right side out. Measure 1" (25mm) from each edge/corner along fold and mark. This is the placement for the start point of each buttonhole for the tie cords.
Tip: Lightly press at each buttonhole marking to create a soft crease. This will help to sew each buttonhole straight and in line with each other.
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Step 22:
Insert matching bobbin and thread machine with outer fabric color. Attach buttonhole foot. Test on a scrap piece of fabric until you have the correct setting to make a 1/2" (13mm) long buttonhole.
Sew a buttonhole with a scrap of interfacing underneath at each of the 2 marks on the fold. Be sure to start at the mark and sew towards the center of the circle of fabric along the crease. Carefully cut the 2 buttonholes using a buttonhole cutter or seam ripper.
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Step 23:
Starting approx. 1" from fold that buttonholes are on, pin piping to the right side of outer fabric piece with raw edges together. Overlap ends to the outside.
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Step 24:
Change to zipper foot. Start sewing at one end of piping and sew all the way around, back over the overlap following the stitching on the piping.
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Step 25:
Trim excess piping at overlap. Place outer fabric and lining with right sides together and pin. Measure a 3" gap and mark. This is the space needed for turning right side out.
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Step 26:
Change top thread to match lining fabric. With zipper foot still attached, and lining side up, start sewing at one mark around to the other mark.
Tip: Be sure to backstitch over both sides of opening to securely lock the stitches at the opening.
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Step 27:
Notch or clip in the seam allowance to help the seams to lay flatter. Turn out through opening and press. Hand stitch with lining thread color to close the opening.
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Step 28:
Change top thread to match outer fabric and change bobbin to match lining fabric. Change to regular sewing foot and align needle with top of one buttonhole on outer fabric side. Place a piece of masking tape on the machine at the edge of the fabric and mark. This is your guide to sew the first seam for the tie cord. Sew all the way around, back to the start point.
Using the same method as before, move the fabric over to align the needle with the bottom of the buttonhole, make a mark on the masking tape as a guide for the second seam to create a gap for the tie cord. Sew all the way around, back to the start point.
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Step 29:
Change bobbin to match color of the outer fabric and top thread to match embroidered pouch fabric. Center embroidered pouch in the seam lines for the tie cord on the lining and pin. Align needle with the tip of an embroidered leaf. Place a piece of masking tape on the machine at the edge of the fabric and mark. This is your guide to sew the center circle in the pouch. Follow this mark to sew a circle around the embroidery.
Tip: If the pouch fabric has a nap (velour, velvet, faux suede), a circular indent can be formed to follow for stitching by pressing the rim of a glass around the leaves. The glass rim should be slightly larger than the leaves.
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Step 30:
Using the buttonholes as the guide for the first stitches in the jewellery sections, pin on lining at each buttonhole. Fold in half, opposite to buttonholes, and line up the pins. Pin on lining at this fold. Repeat for remaining 4 pin placements.
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Step 31:
Start at the stitched circle and sew out to the edge of the pouch towards each pin to make all eight of the jewellery pockets. ** Be sure to backstitch at the edge of the pouch to secure each pocket.
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Step 32:
Attach a safety pin to one end of a tie cord, start at one buttonhole and thread one tie cord all the way around and out through the same hole. Do the same with a second tie cord and the other buttonhole. Gently pull the ties at both sides to create the pouch shape. Tie a knot at each buttonhole. Pull ties to close the pouch.
The name Stitchitize was coined and registered in 1988 when the Conquergoods sold their first contract embroidery business. “Stitchitize” was coined as the art of digitizing stitches for machine embroidery. The company actually started developing embroidery designs in 1983 and soon saw the need for Stock Embroidery Designs. By 1988 the company had several thousand Stock Designs to sell, however the majority of their development was still geared towards the commercial embroidery market. It wasn’t until 2001 when Trevor, the Conquergoods eldest son, now managing Stitchitize, saw the opportunity to start developing designs for the emerging domestic embroidery market. In 2002 the Conquergoods opened a Sewing Centre selling domestic machines and embroidery models. The staff members that were hired for the Sewing Centre were all accomplished sewers and they worked very closely with the Stitchitize staff developing new designs. It soon became apparent that project based designs would be well received by the consumers.
In late 2003 it was George Conquergood, the patriarch of the family that suggested the poem and storybook “Twas The Night Before Christmas” as a good place to start development. The manager of the Sewing Centre at that time, Brenda, was an accomplished artist and she was given the task to prepare the graphics for the storybook. Her drawings were then given to the digitizing department under direction of Beverley and her sister Linda the actual digitizer to execute. Another Sewing Centre staff member Darlene had the task of sewing the original prototypes, which eventually became an even bigger project. A quilt was also developed and Darlene and graphic artist Colin began the task of photographing and documenting every step of the construction process. Finally the collaborative efforts of eight staff members brought the project to completion and the production of the CD. To have the last word, George decided that as part of the product launch in 2004, Stitchitize would give every dealer a personalized copy of the storybook as a Christmas gift. The Conquergoods commercial production manager Darcy was brought in to discuss the logistics. Some of the pages in the book had over 24 colours and up to 42 color changes. Darcy was given the task to pleasingly reduce this to a maximum of 15 colours per page, as that was the maximum number of colours that their largest commercial machine could handle. He did this and started production of the over 200 books required. Darlene got to assemble all 200+ copies on a domestic sewing machine. The books were completed and sent out to all the dealers for Christmas 2004.
The following year George suggested the development of the Mother Goose 1 & 2 Collection, which was so well received that a second collection, Mother Goose 3 & 4 was produced. The graphics and nursery rhymes came from the original book “Mother Goose and her Goslings” which had belonged to George’s mother when she was a child, and read to George as a child. That book is now over 100 years old.
Other collaborative works included the FSL – 3D Flowers & Butterflies Collection, Italian Lace Collections, Mardi Gras Masks and the 13 Stitchitize Bees, which were fully tested by consumers in the Creative House Sewing Centre classrooms.