Celebrate Fall by hanging this lovely wall hanging in your home. The center block is embroidered and quilted in the hoop. The sashing and borders are added at your sewing machine.
Cut 2 9 ½” x 14” rectangles of brown quilting cotton and 1 rectangle of Battilizer® at the same size. Tautly hoop 2.5-ounce cut-away stabilizer in your hoop.
Step 2:
Run the 1st color stop (CS) in any color as a placement line for the fabrics.
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Step 3:
Spray adhesive on one of the brown fabric rectangles and position over the placement line so that the fabric exceeds the placement lines by at least ½” on all sides. Run color-stop 1 (CS1) in water soluble thread to tack down the fabric. A golden color was used in the photo so that you can see it. Water soluble thread should be used as all the stitching going across the fabric may cause it to pull in at the sides. If any of this tack down shows after you put your sashing on the block you will be able to remove it with a damp cloth.
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Step 4:
Follow the color chart to embroider the graphic and lettering, do not stitch the last two color stops yet.
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Step 5:
Remove the hoop from the machine, do not unhoop. Lay the hoop face down on a flat surface. Spray adhesive on the Battilizer® and position it over the placement lines on the back of the hoop so that the fabric exceeds the placement lines by at least ½” on all sides. Spray adhesive on the remaining piece of Kona Cloth® and align over the Battilizer®. The picture only shows the Battilizer® in place. Align the sprayed side of the back fabric directly over the Battilizer®.
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Step 6:
Return the hoop to the machine. Run CS 18 in water soluble thread to tack down the Battilizer® and back fabric. Run the last CS in brown or any color you would like for the quilting. I failed to take a picture at this point, so I’ve simulated the quilting in this photo.
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Step 7:
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Lay the ¼” mark on the tack down lines of the block and trim all sides to a ¼” seam allowance. If your long side tack down stitches are a little off from each other, due to the pull of the fabric, always place your ¼” mark of the ruler on the outside tack down stitch.
Step 8:
Cut 4 plaid fabric borders 14” x 3”; cut 4 plaid borders 16”x 3”; cut 2 Battilizer® borders 14” x 3”; cut 2 Battilizer® borders 16” x 3”
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Step 9:
Make quilt sandwiches from these strips by spraying adhesive on one side of a batting strip and adhering a corresponding strip of fabric to it. Spray the other side of the batting with adhesive and adhere another corresponding fabric strip to that side. Repeat for all batting and fabric strips.
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Step 10:
For orange sashing cut 2 1 ¼” strips the width of the fabric; cut 2 1 ½” strips the width of the fabric. For the binding cut 2 2 ¼” strips of the orange fabric. Cut 2 6” squares of any fabric to be the dowel holders.
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Step 11:
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Spray the sashing strips with Magic sizing or spray starch. Fold the long edges to the center and press. Keep the narrow sashing strips separate from the wider sashing strips. The narrow strips will be stitched to the back of the mini quilt, the wider strips will be stitched to the front of the mini quilt.
Step 12:
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Load your sewing machine with invisible thread at the top of the machine and in the bobbin. Select a wide zigzag stitch (5mm) with the spacing at 4 to 4.5 mm. Butt a 14” strip next to the side of the quilt block having the strip extend a little beyond the quilt top on each end. Zigzag the border to the quilt block without overlaps or gaps. Repeat on the other long side of the quilt block.
Step 13:
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Trim the excess border strips from both ends of the quilt block.
Step 14:
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Stitch the 16” border strips across the top and bottom ends of the quilt block in the same manner as you attached the side borders in Step 12.
Step 15:
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Trim the excess border even with the side borders.
Step 16:
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The sashing strips can be stitched with a straight stitch but, I prefer a Serpentine stitch as it blends in nicely with the stippled stitching of the quilt block.
Step 17:
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Lay the narrow sashing strip over the horizontal zigzag seams on the quilt back extending the sashing strip too approximately ½” over the sides of the quilt block. Stitch down both sides of each sashing strip with invisible thread and the Serpentine stitch.
Step 18:
Turn the quilt right side up. Stitch the wider sashing strip over the horizontal seams in the same manner.
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Step 19:
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Turn the quilt wrong side up. Stitch the narrow sashing strips across the vertical zigzag seams in the same manner.
Step 20:
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Turn the quilt right side up and stitch the wider sashing strips across the vertical seams in the same manner.
Step 21:
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Trim the excess sashing from all sides of the mini quilt squaring up the mini quilt as you do so.
Step 22:
Press the two 6” squares of fabric for the dowl holders in half to form a triangle and press. Place the raw edges of the triangles even with the top of the mini quilt. Baste the outside edges to the mini quilt with a 1/8” seam allowance.
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Step 23:
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Join the two 2 ¼” strips of binding and bind the quilt using your preferred method.
Step 24:
Slide the dowel under the two pockets in order to hang the mini quilt. Two little nails or push pins in the wall placed about 2 ¾” apart will let this dowel sit on them and keep your mini quilt straight.
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Step 25:
Congratulations your Fall Harvest Mini Quilt is complete!
Award winning Digitizer, Embroidery Educator, Author and a Consultant to the Industry, Pat Williams has 30 years of experience in the embroidery industry. Pat has won multiple awards for her digitizing expertise including the 2007 Impressions Awards Grand Championship, Best of Show as well as the 1st and 2nd Place Awards. Pat’s love of digitizing has afforded her the opportunity to write numerous articles for Impressions magazine in the United States and Images Magazine in Europe. In 2001 Pat was named “Embroidery Educator of the Year.” For many years Pat taught digitizing seminars at the ISS Shows in Long Beach, CA and for Compucon software. She now resides in Tucson, AZ.
