These simple blocks are appliqued and quilted in the hoop. The sashing and binding are added at your sewing machine. SVG and FCM files are available for electronic cutters, but you can also use the stitch and trim method.
Prepare your applique pieces before starting each block by ironing the fabric with spray starch 3 or 4 times to make the fabric as crisp as a piece of paper. Then iron the Heat N Bond Lite to the back of the fabric. For each design you will need to cut from the Batik fabrics and Heat N Bond Lite:
Design Cactus Pot
22101 8 1/2"x 7" 4" x 4"
22102 4" x 4" 3" x 4"
22103 4" x 4 1/2" 3" x 2 1/2"
22104 8 1/2" x 4" 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
22105 5 1/2" x 4 1/2" 3 1/2" x 3"
22106 4" x 3 1/2" 3" x 3"
22107 7" x 8" 6 1/2" x 4"
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Step 2:
The cutting files are designed to cut fabric side up. Peel the paper backing off the applique fabric and position the fabrics onto the cutting mat.
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Step 3:
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Open the FCM file and scan in your mat. Move the applique cutting lines over the fabrics.
Step 4:
Cut the appliques and remove from the mat.
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Step 5:
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Cut your front, back and batting 9 ½” x 13 ½” for the large blocks and 7 ½” x 9 ½” for the smaller blocks. In the sample the fabric used for the front and back of the block are the same fabric. Tautly hoop poly mesh stabilizer in the hoop and take the fabric, appliques, and batting to the embroidery machine.
Step 6:
Run color stop 1 (CS1) as a placement line for the front fabric.
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Step 7:
Spray adhesive on the back of the front fabric and position over the placement lines so that the fabric exceeds the placement lines by art last ½” on all sides. Run CS2 I water soluble thread to tack down the fabric.
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Step 8:
Run the next CS in a color that matches your cactus fabric.
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Step 9:
Spray adhesive on the back of your precut applique cactus and carefully position the fabric over the placement lines. With an applique shape that is this complex align each segment of the cactus individually instead of just trying to align the whole shape at one time. Then iron the applique to adhere it to the front fabric. If using the stitch and trim method just spray the whole rectangle of cactus fabric and position over the placement lines.
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Step 10:
Run the next CS in the same green thread to tack down the applique. When using the precut appliques, it is not really necessary to run the color stop but it will let you know that your applique is in the correct place. Those using the stitch and trim method need these tack down stitches to tack down the fabric. They need to then trim the applique right up next to the tack down lines and then press the applique.
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Step 11:
The next CS borders the cactus.
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Step 12:
Change your thread to a color thread that matches your pot fabric. Repeat Steps 9 10 and 11 to applique the pot.
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Step 13:
There may or may not be an additional color stop in the design to stitch contrasting details on the design. Follow the color chart for these additional details. Do not stitch the last two color stops yet.
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Step 14:
Remove the hoop from the machine, do not unhoop. Turn the hoop face down on a flat surface. Spray adhesive on your batting and align over the original placement lines on the back of the hoop. Spray adhesive on the back of the back fabric and align over the batting right side up. Sometimes when putting the hoop back into the machine the needle plate will cause the back fabric or batting to flip into the sewing area of the block. A strip of embroidery tape along the outer edge of the batting and fabric that will go first into the machine will prevent that from happening.
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Step 15:
Return the hoop to the machine and run the next to last color stop in water soluble thread to tack down the quilt block fabric.
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Step 16:
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Stitch the final CS in white to quilt the block.
Step 17:
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Remove the quilt block from the hoop. Lay the ¼” mark of a see-through ruler on the final tack down lines and trim all sides of the block to ¼” seam allowances.
Step 18:
Complete the other 6 blocks for this project following the above instructions and lay them out in the manner you would like to have them in your table runner.
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Step 19:
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Cut 2 1 ¼” strips and 2 1 ½” strips across the width of the fabric for the sashing. You can also cut 3 strips of the same fabric 2 ¼” wide for the binding (not pictured).
Step 20:
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Spray the 1 ¼” and the 1 ½” sashing strips with spray starch fold the long sides into the center and press. Keep the wider and more narrow sashing strips separate, the narrow strips will be stitched to the back of the table runner, the wider strips will be stitched to the front.
Step 21:
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Load invisible thread into the bobbin and top of your sewing machine. Select a wide zigzag, 5.5mm if you have it and with a wide spacing, 4mm is good.
Step 22:
We will join the smaller blocks together first. Butt two of the smaller blocks at your sewing machine without gaps or overlaps and zigzag the two blocks together.
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Step 23:
Select a stitch at your sewing machine to stitch down the sashing strips. I prefer a stitch such as the Serpentine stitch as when stitched with the invisible thread it blends in nicely with the stipple stitch quilt on these blocks. But, you can use whatever stitch you prefer. Take a picture of your settings so that you will remember what settings you used as you will be alternating between the zigzag stitch and the sashing tack down stitches in the next few steps.
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Step 24:
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Turn the two joined blocks face down. Center a narrow sashing strip over the zigzag seam. Stitch down both sides of the sashing with your Serpentine or stitch of your choice.
Step 25:
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Turn the joined blocks right side up. Center and stitch down a wider sashing strip over the zigzag seam on the front of the blocks. Repeat these instructions for the second two small blocks.
Step 26:
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Trim away the excess sashing strips from all sides of the combined small blocks.
Step 27:
Switch back to the zigzag settings on your machine. Zigzag the large blocks to the combined small blocks as in Step 22.
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Step 28:
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Lay the table runner face down at your machine. Center the narrow sashing strips over the vertical zigzag seams and stitch down both sides of the sashing.
Step 29:
The back of your table runner will now look like this.
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Step 30:
Stitch the remaining wider strips of sashing over the vertical zigzag seams on the front of the table runner in the same manner.
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Step 31:
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Trim the excess sashing all around the table runner squaring it up as necessary.
Step 32:
Bind the table runner using your preferred method.
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Step 33:
Congratulations your Potted Cactus Table Runner is complete!
Award winning Digitizer, Embroidery Educator, Author and a Consultant to the Industry, Pat Williams has 30 years of experience in the embroidery industry. Pat has won multiple awards for her digitizing expertise including the 2007 Impressions Awards Grand Championship, Best of Show as well as the 1st and 2nd Place Awards. Pat’s love of digitizing has afforded her the opportunity to write numerous articles for Impressions magazine in the United States and Images Magazine in Europe. In 2001 Pat was named “Embroidery Educator of the Year.” For many years Pat taught digitizing seminars at the ISS Shows in Long Beach, CA and for Compucon software. She now resides in Tucson, AZ.