Autumn Blessin’s Table Runner Embroidery Project

Cut 5 10” x 14” rectangles of White Kona cloth and poly mesh stabilizer for the back of each main block; print out the design sheets at actual size. Measure the applique pieces and cut fabrics at least 1” larger than the appliques; spray each applique fabric 4 times with Magic Sizing then apply Heat N bond lite to the backs of the fabrics.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions these appliques were cut with the Scan N Cut2. Settings may vary from machine to machine but these appliques were cut with the Hear and Bond Lite back paper removed; Cut speed 4; Pressure 4; Blade depth 4.

Hoop the stabilizer and the Kona cloth; with a thread to match your shirt applique run (color stop) CS 1 for a placement line for the applique.

If using precut appliques iron the applique into place. Run CS 2 which are tack down stitches that will just outline the applique.

If using the stitch and trim method spray a little adhesive on to the applique square and place over the outline; Run CS 2 for the tack down stitches and then trim right up next to tack down stitches; the iron the applique to permanent adhesion.

Run CS 3 in thread to match your shirt.

Run CS 4 in a neutral thread for a placement line for the face.

Place the face applique following the instructions in Step 4 depending on whether or not you are using precut appliques or the stitch and trim method. CS 5 is the tack down for the face.

CS 6 is the placement line for the hat.

Place the hat applique using your preferred method. CS 7 is the tack down for the hat.

CS 8, CS 9 and CS 10 will be the placement line, tack down and border of the sign as well as the stitching for the collar.

Follow the color chart to complete the design. This scarecrow has the largest number of appliques; use the same methods outlined above complete the other 4 applique designs.

Lay the paper print out over the embroidery and with a Frixion® pen punch right through the paper and make a mark at the center of the design as well as on the end points of the cross hairs.

We are now going to use an 8.5” quilter’s template to cut the blocks down to size. I want you to be aware that since the template is 8.5” rather than 8” square you have to align the ruler along the lines shown highlighted in red, that is ¼” to the right and ¼” below what looks like the center of the template. Align these lines with the marks you made on the block and draw a line all the way around the block.

Then use a longer ruler to trim your block down to 8.5” square.

Cut 4 2” strips of your sashing and border fabric 8.5” long.

With a ¼” seam allowance on each side join the sashing strips to the inside edges of the blocks; press all seams in towards the sashing strips.

Cut 2 2.5” by 50” long strips (this have to be cut lengthwise on the fabric), and 2 2.5” by 8.5” strips for the borders; Cut 4 2.5” square from the gold Kona cloth for the corners.

With a ¼” seam allowance join the corner squares to the short end strips of the border; press the seams towards the border strip.

Before stitching the long borders to the top and the bottom of the table runner lay it on your cutting mat and make sure the edges of the blocks are even; trim any little areas necessary.

Stitch the long borders to the top and bottom of the quilt with a ¼” seam allowance; press the seams towards the borders; these strips have been cut slightly longer than the table runner; trim on the side edges even with the end blocks after stitching and pressing.

Aligning the seam of the corner blocks with the seam on the long borders stitch the end borders to the table runner; press the seams towards the end borders.

Cut batting and back fabric 4” wider and longer than the table runner; lay the back fabric right side down on a flat surface and spray with adhesive spray; lay the batting on top of the back fabric and smooth out any wrinkles; spray adhesive on the batting; center the table runner top on the batting and smooth out any wrinkles.

Enhance your quilt blocks with free motion and decorative stitches on your sewing machine. Free motion stipple quilting was use inside the blocks around the appliques. It is easier than you think. Youtube has many videos showing you how to free motion stipple stitches. I particularly like the Free Motion Quilt Along #1 - Let's Wiggle! Video by Leah Day. A half hours practice session on a sandwich of fabric made from left over batting and fabric will get you ready to stipple your blocks. It does not have to be perfect, just do it! You are also free to try any other types of patterns to quilt around your appliques, echo quilting around the applique (just stitching ¼” around the applique, following around the shape of the applique would be another option.

Explore the many options on your sewing machine for decorative stitches to further embellish your table runner. I made another sandwich of batting and fabric and tested many stitches before I chose this cross pattern. I adjusted it to 9mm wide which is as wide as it would let make it. With the sewing machine manual in hand if necessary play with the stitches your machine has to choose one that you like.

With this stitch I choose to have half of the stitch in the border and half within the block, so I aligned the presser foot along the seams of the block; roll the ends of the table runner as necessary to be able to turn the block as you stitch.

Trim the excess batting and back fabric from the table runner.

As I was trimming the batting and backing from the quilt I had to move the rest of the 2.5” strip of gold that I had used to cut the 4 corner squares. So I decided to sub-cut it into 8 2 ½” squares to make prairie points to add to the table runner. After sub-cutting the 2 ½” squares take them to the ironing board and press them.

Fold them diagonally and press again.

Fold diagonally again and press well.

Align the prairie points in a random, but planned, manner along the edges of the table runner. You can see that I aligned three along the bottom of the first sashing strip and at the top of the last sashing strip, one prairie point was placed at the top left sashing strip and one was placed at the bottom right of the center block. You may put yours where ever you like. Baste them into place with a scan ¼” seam

Cut 4 binding strips the width you prefer to work with, these were but at 2.25” and bind with your favorite method.

Congratulations your Autumn Blessin’s table runner is complete, I hope this project has inspired you to become more familiar with the amazing features of your sewing machine.