If you don’t have access to Battilizer® use one layer of low loft batting and one layer of poly-mesh stabilizer in its place. The use of fibrous water soluble stabilizer will insure nice clean edges on the cases. The borders on all of these cases is sewn in white as my machines all want fine (90 wt) bobbin thread and white is what looked best on my fabrics. If your machine likes regular 40 wt thread in its bobbin you may choose to wind a bobbin in the color you select for your borders.
Step 1:
Cut your fabrics per the materials list above; cut the Battilizer® into one piece the same size as the back fabric pieces and one piece ½ the length of the front fabric. Press all fabrics with Magic Sizing or spray starch 3 or four times.
Step 2:
Lay the front Battilizer® on the front fabric piece aligning at a bottom edge.
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Step 3:
Fold the other half of the front fabric over the top of the Battilizer and press.
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Step 4:
Apply Heat N Bond Lite® to each piece of the back fabric.
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Step 5:
Individually place the back pieces over the Battilizer® and fuse making a quilt sandwich of fabric, Battilizer® and fabric.
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Step 6:
Hoop two layers of fibrous water soluble stabilizer in your hoop (note the sample was sewn is a 12” x 7” hoop but the largest design will sew in a 10” x 6” hoop and the smaller ones will sew in 5”x 7” hoops. Run the first CS (color stop) for an outline of the front.
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Step 7:
Place your front fabric over the outlines aligning the folded edge with the top of the stitched outline; tape down the top and bottom edges with scotch tape extending all the way across the top and bottom.
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Step 8:
Run CS 2 to tack down the fabric.
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Step 9:
Remove the hoop from the machine – do not unhoop-trim the excess fabric right up next to the outline. The tape at the bottom will be removed but leave the tape at the top of the front until the project is complete.
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Step 10:
Follow the color chart to embroider the scissors design.
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Step 11:
Run the next CS to stitch an outline for case back. This and the next two steps can be all stitched in white.
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Step 12:
Slip the back sandwich of fabric, batting, fabric, under the hoop. The tack down stitches will sew as shown in the dashed line; the outline of the fabric slipped under the hoop is shown by the drawn solid line. Run the next CS to tack down the back.
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Step 13:
Remove the hoop from the machine – do not unhoop; turn to the back and trim the case back as close as possible to the tack down stitches.
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Step 14:
Return the hoop to the machine to stitch the final satin border. Remove the scotch tape from the top of the pocket.
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Step 15:
Roughly cut the excess stabilizer away from the project.
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Step 16:
Hold the project under running hot water to remove the stabilizer.
Step 17:
At the top of the front pocket there will be one chain of stitches to trim out. These were the original outline of the front pocket.
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Step 18:
Lay the scissors case on a loop free dish towel to dry; insert a butter knife into the pocket to keep the two sides from sticking together.
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Step 19:
Congratulations your Victorian Scissors Case is complete!
Award winning Digitizer, Embroidery Educator, Author and a Consultant to the Industry, Pat Williams has 30 years of experience in the embroidery industry. Pat has won multiple awards for her digitizing expertise including the 2007 Impressions Awards Grand Championship, Best of Show as well as the 1st and 2nd Place Awards. Pat’s love of digitizing has afforded her the opportunity to write numerous articles for Impressions magazine in the United States and Images Magazine in Europe. In 2001 Pat was named “Embroidery Educator of the Year.” For many years Pat taught digitizing seminars at the ISS Shows in Long Beach, CA and for Compucon software. She now resides in Tucson, AZ.