Decorative meets ergonomic with this easy and fun Bolster Pillow. Add this beautiful pillow to your bedroom for that designer touch that gives great neck support!
Decorative meets ergonomic with this easy and fun Bolster Pillow. Add this beautiful pillow to your bedroom for that designer touch that gives great neck support! The body and ends of the pillow are stippled to create a wonderful quilted effect. Our fabric requirements make a finished size of 6" x 14" with a zippered opening.
Step 1:
Embroidery
Iron Fusible interfacing to wrong side of each of the 8" x 8" squares fabric following manufacturers directions.
Step 2:
Mark center of both 8" outer fabric squares with masking tape.
Step 3:
Load embroidery design Bee005A to your embroidery machine.
Step 4:
Hoop 1 outer fabric square with center mark as close to center as possible.
Step 5:
Line up needle on machine with center mark on tape. Slide a piece of tear-away stabilizer under the hoop. Remove tape and sew embroidery design.
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Step 6:
Repeat steps 3-4 for second 8" outer fabric square.
Step 7:
Trim jump threads between flowers and remove excess tear-away stabilizer from backs.
May we suggest that you coordinate the embroidery thread colors with your piping fabric.
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Stippling
Also known as Free Form or Freehand Embroidery. Stippling is a continuous meandering line of stitching that is used to fill in a large area with a quilted effect. We are going to use this effect
on the base of the pillow and also around the embroidery on the end pieces.
Tips:
*Lower the feed dogs so that the fabric can be guided by hand. *Practice on a scrap piece of fabric to get the right rhythm. *Set machine to "Needle Down" position (if you have to stop stippling you won't lose your place). *Hold the fabric with both hands. (quilting gloves can be worn for better grip) *Sew at a steady medium speed. *The stippling lines should not touch or cross each other or make a sharp turn. *Keep stippling approx. 1/4" away from embroidery. *This technique uses a great deal of bobbin thread, so be sure to start with a full bobbin. *You do not have to force the fabric to move quickly, a steady movement combined with machine speed will ensure lovely results. *Be sure to clean any loose threads from between fabric and filler as they will become trapped if sewn in.
Step 8:
Line up (printed and cut out) 1/2 circle pattern center arrow with the center embroidered dot on square. Mark a dotted line around the 1/2 circle pattern.
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Step 9:
Repeat for opposite side of embroidery and for second embroidered square.
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Step 10:
Change machine to regular sewing, and foot to darning/pogo foot. Change to matching regular sewing thread and bobbin to outer fabric. Lower the feed dogs so that the fabric can be guided by hand.
Step 11:
Place 14 1/2" x 18" quilt batting/filler piece 1" from the edge on the back of the 14 1/2" x 20" fabric and pin as shown. You should have a 1" space on each end of fabric where there is no batting. Start at edge where filler and fabric meet (1" in from corner) and stipple entire area on fabric side. Be sure to stipple just over the edge where fabric and filler meet.
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Step 12:
Place a 7" piece of quilt batting/filler on the back of each of the embroidered squares and pin at 4 corners. Start at the marked edge and stipple around the embroidery on both pieces.
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Step 13:
Cut out 2 end piece circles along marked dotted line. Note: When all stippling is complete, raise the feed dogs.
Step 14:
Piping
If you don’t have a big enough piece of fabric on the bias, join two pieces together.
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Step 15:
Attach piping foot to your sewing machine.
Step 16:
Fold fabric around cording. Place on the sewing machine with the cording trapped in the groove on the left of the foot and the fabric edges to the right. Leave about an inch out of the back of the machine for slack.
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Step 17:
Sew along the cording on the fabric. The groove on the foot will keep the cording in place. Be sure to slowly feed the cording and fabric through keeping the fabric edges together. Repeat for second strip of piping.
Step 18:
Starting with one end of piping slightly to the left of a large embroidered flower, pin piping to the right side of outer fabric piece with raw edges together. Overlap ends to the outside. The overlap should line up with a large embroidered flower.
Step 19:
Change to zipper foot. Start sewing at one end of piping and sew all the way around, back over the overlap following the stitching on the piping. Trim excess piping at overlap.
Step 20:
Clip 8 notches on raw/outer edge (note yellow indicators). Repeat steps 5-7 for second embroidered circle.
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Step 21:
Inserting Lapped Zipper
On ends of stippled pillow body fabric that have no filler, fold under and press one end 1/2" (this will become END A) and the other end 1" (this will become END B).
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Step 22:
With zipper closed, start at pull end and pin zipper to END A. Be sure that the zipper head is 3/8" from raw edge for seam allowance. Place fabric close to the teeth but not covering.
Step 23:
With needle on right side of foot, and zipper foot still attached, stitch 1/8" from the fold of the fabric.
Step 24:
Place on flat surface with a ruler under the zipper and zipper face up.
Step 25:
Pull END B around and lay on top of exposed zipper matching sides at both ends. Overlap pressed edge of END B along stitch line from END A and pin fabric to zipper tape. The ruler helps to prevent pinning through to other side.
Step 26:
Open zipper and stitch 1/2" in from pressed edge on END B.
Step 27:
Close zipper.
Step 28:
Final Construction
With zipper closed, turn pillow body inside out. To ensure that the circle ends are sewn in evenly, use the overlap of piping on the embroidered ends as a guide to pin quarter sections on each end circle. Use the zipper as the guide to pin quarter sections on the pillow body.
Step 29:
Start with the pin at the piping overlap on one circle end and line it up with the pin at the zipper on the pillow body. Line up the other 3 pins and pin the 2 pieces together, right sides together. Repeat for other end.
Step 30:
Open zipper partway. With zipper foot still attached, sew each end to body, sewing on end/circle side. Feel piping with finger and push towards zipper foot edge. Sew over zipper sections slowly and backtack at teeth.
Note: Zipper foot must be very tight against piping. When each end is finished, turn right side out and check for visible piping stitches. If any are visible, turn inside out and restitch.
Step 31:
If a larger zipper was used than required, trim excess zipper at end.
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Step 32:
Open zipper, turn right side out and stuff with 6" x 14" pillow form. Finished!
The name Stitchitize was coined and registered in 1988 when the Conquergoods sold their first contract embroidery business. “Stitchitize” was coined as the art of digitizing stitches for machine embroidery. The company actually started developing embroidery designs in 1983 and soon saw the need for Stock Embroidery Designs. By 1988 the company had several thousand Stock Designs to sell, however the majority of their development was still geared towards the commercial embroidery market. It wasn’t until 2001 when Trevor, the Conquergoods eldest son, now managing Stitchitize, saw the opportunity to start developing designs for the emerging domestic embroidery market. In 2002 the Conquergoods opened a Sewing Centre selling domestic machines and embroidery models. The staff members that were hired for the Sewing Centre were all accomplished sewers and they worked very closely with the Stitchitize staff developing new designs. It soon became apparent that project based designs would be well received by the consumers.
In late 2003 it was George Conquergood, the patriarch of the family that suggested the poem and storybook “Twas The Night Before Christmas” as a good place to start development. The manager of the Sewing Centre at that time, Brenda, was an accomplished artist and she was given the task to prepare the graphics for the storybook. Her drawings were then given to the digitizing department under direction of Beverley and her sister Linda the actual digitizer to execute. Another Sewing Centre staff member Darlene had the task of sewing the original prototypes, which eventually became an even bigger project. A quilt was also developed and Darlene and graphic artist Colin began the task of photographing and documenting every step of the construction process. Finally the collaborative efforts of eight staff members brought the project to completion and the production of the CD. To have the last word, George decided that as part of the product launch in 2004, Stitchitize would give every dealer a personalized copy of the storybook as a Christmas gift. The Conquergoods commercial production manager Darcy was brought in to discuss the logistics. Some of the pages in the book had over 24 colours and up to 42 color changes. Darcy was given the task to pleasingly reduce this to a maximum of 15 colours per page, as that was the maximum number of colours that their largest commercial machine could handle. He did this and started production of the over 200 books required. Darlene got to assemble all 200+ copies on a domestic sewing machine. The books were completed and sent out to all the dealers for Christmas 2004.
The following year George suggested the development of the Mother Goose 1 & 2 Collection, which was so well received that a second collection, Mother Goose 3 & 4 was produced. The graphics and nursery rhymes came from the original book “Mother Goose and her Goslings” which had belonged to George’s mother when she was a child, and read to George as a child. That book is now over 100 years old.
Other collaborative works included the FSL – 3D Flowers & Butterflies Collection, Italian Lace Collections, Mardi Gras Masks and the 13 Stitchitize Bees, which were fully tested by consumers in the Creative House Sewing Centre classrooms.