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ITH Praying Angel Wall Hanging for the 5” x 7” Hoop

(Click to View All Images)


Materials
  • 1/3 yard quality polyester satin
  • 1/3 yard Let’s Pretend LP Hold Ducco Organza-White (from Joann’s Fabrics)
  • 1/3 yard white 100% cotton for Angel back
  • 1/3 yard Pellon Craft Fuse 808
  • 1/3 yard firm Pellon batting – Pellon Thermolam
  • 2.5 yards of fibrous water soluble stabilizer such as Wet n’ Gone
  • Spray Adhesive
  • Polyester embroidery thread Madeira Powder Blue (1973)
  • Scotch Tape
  • Embroidery Tape
  • 3.5” of ribbon or Polyester white cording
  • Optional: 3mm and 4mm Hot Fix Crystals

  • Designs used in this project

    Preface:
    For ease in cutting, cut a 22” x 12” rectangle of the white fabric for the back of the angel and a 22” x 12” rectangle of the Pellon Craft Fuse and fuse the two together following the manufacturer’s instructions. The cut from the fused backing, the satin, and the Thermolam:

    1. 6.5” x 8” rectangle for the lower skirt
    2. 6.5” x 6.5” square for the upper skirt
    3. 7” x 5” rectangle for the upper wing
    4. 6” x 5.5” rectangle for the lower wing
    5. 6” x 4.5” for the face and body.

    In addition cut from the Let’s Pretend Organza cut:
    1. 6.5” x 8” rectangle for the lower skirt
    2. 7” x 5” rectangle for the upper wing
    3. 6” x 5.5” rectangle for the lower wing.

    There are 5 design files that make up the ITH Praying Angel. They must be sewn in the correct sequence as described below in order for the pieces to be attached together at the correct time.


    Step 1:
    Stack your satin, back fabric, batting and organza according to which section of the design it will be used for and label as such.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 2:
    Load the Powder Blue (1273) thread in the top of your machine. Tautly hoop two layers of fibrous water soluble stabilizer in your embroidery hoop.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 3:
    The bottom of the skirt is sewn first. Load the design file ANG01 into your machine. Run the first color sequence which is an outline of the lower skirt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 4:
    Remove the hoop from the machine – do not un-hoop. Turn the hoop over and lightly spray adhesive over the outlined shape. Place the back fabric/craft fuse 6.5” x 8” rectangle over the outline, fabric side up.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 5:
    Turn the hoop right side up. Spray over the outline with spray adhesive. Lay the Thermolam batting over the outline.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 6:
    Lightly spray the positioned Thermolam with adhesive spray and place the satin rectangle over the Thermolam.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 7:
    Lightly spray the satin with adhesive spray, lay the Let’s Pretend organza over the top and smooth in place.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 8:
    Return the hoop to the machine and stitch the tack down line which will hold all layers in place.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 9:
    Remove the hoop from the machine. Trim the back fabric with small sharp scissors as close to the tack down stitches as possible.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 10:
    Trim the organza and satin from the front of the work as close as possible to the tack down stitches as pictured. Then trim the batting as close as possible to the tack down stitches – not pictured.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 11:
    Return the hoop to the machine and stitch the last color sequence which will stitch the detail and borders on the lower skirt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 12:
    Remove the lower skirt from the hoop. Trim around the border edges. You can leave 1/8” or more around the outside edges to ensure you don’t nick any of the satin border. On the top edge that does not have a border, trim as close as possible to the tack down stitching. Set this piece aside.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 13:
    Load design ANG02 into your embroidery machine. Hoop two layers of fibrous water soluble stabilizer and stitch the first color stop which is an outline of the upper skirt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 14:
    Remove the hoop from the machine, do not un-hoop. Turn the hoop over and spray the outlined area with adhesive spray. Place the back fabric/craft fuse square of fabric over the outline.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 15:
    Turn the hoop right side up. Spray the outline area with adhesive spray. Place the batting over the outline. Spray the batting with adhesive spray. Place the satin over the batting. There is no organza overlay on the upper skirt unless you decide to do so. If you do want to place an overlay over the satin, spray and lay it over the satin at this time.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 16:
    Return the hoop to the machine. Run the next color sequence which is a tack down line for all of the layers of fabrics.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 17:
    Remove the hoop from the machine – do not un-hoop. Trim the back fabric and then trim the satin and the batting as close as possible to the tack down stitching.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 18:
    Run the next color sequence which will sew the inner detail on the upper skirt.


    Step 19:
    Spray the stabilizer lightly with spray adhesive at the bottom of the upper skirt. Fit the completed lower skirt into the curves at the bottom of the upper skirt while the upper skirt is still in the hoop. The pieces should fit into each other like a jigsaw puzzle. Trim the edges if necessary to get a nice tight fit. Use some embroidery tape to help maintain the position of the lower skirt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 20:
    Run the next color sequence which will be a zigzag stitch to join the upper and lower skirt together. Examine this stitch to make sure the two pieces are joined correctly before proceeding.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 21:
    Run the final color sequence to stitch out the borders and finish the skirt. The embroidery tape was still in place when the final stitches were being sewn and was removed for this picture so you can see the finished skirt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 22:
    Remove the skirt from the hoop. Trim the stabilizer away from the skirt. You may trim the upper skirt about 1/8” away from the satin border edges. Trim very close to the top edge of the skirt. Don’t forget to trim away the excess stabilizer on the back where the two sections of the skirt meet. Set this piece aside for now.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 23:
    Load design ANG03 into your machine. This is the top wing. Hoop two layers of the fibrous water soluble stabilizer. Run the first color sequence for the outline. Spray and adhere the back fabric. Spray and adhere the batting, satin and organza overlay on the front as before.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 24:
    Run the next color sequence which is the tack down line for all the fabrics.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 25:
    Remove the hoop from the machine – do not un-hoop. Trim the fabrics on the back and the front as before.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 26:
    Return the hoop to the machine and stitch the final color sequence which will be the detail and borders on the top wing.


    Step 27:
    Remove the embroidery from the hoop. Trim the satin bordered edges about 1/8” from the borders. Trim the un-bordered edges as close as possible to the tack down lines.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 28:
    Load design ANG04 into your machine. Hoop two layers of fibrous water soluble stabilizer. Stitch the first color sequence which is the outline for the lower wing. Remove the hoop from the machine. With spray adhesive apply the back fabric to the back of the hoop. Layering as for the other designs with spray adhesive apply the batting, satin and organza overlay to the front. Run the second color stop which is a tack down for all of the fabrics. Trim the excess fabrics from the back and front of the hoop as with the first pieces.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 29:
    Run the next color sequence which is the detail on the wing.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 30:
    Lightly spray adhesive on the stabilizer just above the top of the lower wing. Align the top wing completed piece over the arc of the lower wing. Make sure it is a snug fit.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 31:
    Apply a little scotch tape over the inner sections where the two pieces meet just to make sure that one doesn’t flip up during the stitching process.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 32:
    Run the next color sequence which is a zigzag tack down to hold the two pieces together. Make sure the zigzag extends over the fabric on both wings.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 33:
    Run the final color sequence which will border the lower wing.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 34:
    Remove the wings from the stabilizer. Trim the stabilizer very close on the inner edge of the wings. Trim the stabilizer approximately 1/8th inch or more around the satin bordered edges.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 35:
    Load Design ANG05 for the face and body into your machine. Hoop two layers of fibrous water soluble stabilizer. Run the 1st color sequence which is the outline. Using the spray adhesive as before adhere the back fabric to the underside of the hoop and the batting and satin layers to the front of the hoop. Run the 2nd color sequence which is the tack down for all the fabrics.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 36:
    Trim the front and back fabrics as close as possible to the tack down lines.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 37:
    Cut a 3.5” length of white poly cord and scotch tape to the top of the back of the head. Also tape the top of the loop to the back of the stabilizer to make sure it stays in place. Note: There is some blue stitching in this picture that you will not have on your project yet. I forgot to place the cord at the proper time and had to stop the stitching to put the cord on. If you place your cord right after you have trimmed the face and body you will be fine.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 38:
    Run the next color sequence which is the detail stitching on the face and body.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 39:
    Remove the hoop from the machine – do not un-hoop. Lightly spray adhesive at the bottom of the body. Align the completed skirt at the bottom of the bodice.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 40:
    Place some embroidery tape over the skirt to help it maintain its position. Position just a little lower than I did in the picture as I had to move mine down a little during the next steps.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 41:
    Stitch the next color sequence which is a zigzag tack down line to connect the skirt to the bodice.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 42:
    Remove the hoop from the machine. Lightly spray the stabilizer just behind the angel’s back. Align the completed wing section to the angel’s back. Apply embroidery tape to help maintain the position.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 43:
    Return the hoop to the machine and stitch the next color sequence which will be a zigzag tack down to hold the wings to the body.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 44:
    Run the final color sequence which will border the bodice and complete the design.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 45:
    Remove the angel from the hoop and trim the excess stabilizer around the whole bodice.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 46:
    With a small cloth or sponge (a Q-tip is good for small areas) and hot water, remove the fibrous water soluble stabilizer from around the angel. Remove the stabilizer on the back of the project too where the sections joined to each other.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 47:
    Lay on a clean, smooth dish towel to dry.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 48:
    If you want to further embellish your angel you can apply hot fix crystals as I did here. I put three 3mm crystals on her headband, 4mm crystals on the largest loops in the skirt and 3mm crystals on the smaller loops on the skirt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 49:
    Congratulations your praying angel wall hanging is complete!

    (Click Image to Enlarge)


    For the love of embroidery…
    Pat Williams


    Share this project:     
    Meet The Author: Pat Williams
    Award winning Digitizer, Embroidery Educator, Author and a Consultant to the Industry, Pat Williams has 20 years of experience in the embroidery industry. Pat has won multiple awards for her digitizing expertise including the 2007 Impressions Awards Grand Championship, Best of Show as well as the 1st and 2nd Place Awards.. Pat’s love of digitizing has afforded her the opportunity to write many articles for Impressions magazine in the United States and Images Magazine in Europe. She also has authored her own digitizing training CD series, “Digitizing Steps to Success.” In 2001 Pat was named “Embroidery Educator of the Year.” For many years Pat lead digitizing seminars at the ISS Shows in Long Beach, CA and for Compucon software. Pat retired from the commercial embroidery arena in 2010. She now resides in Sierra Vista, AZ. She can be reached at pwilliams22@cox.net.

    Feedback
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    Zachary R Sep 07, 2014
    This project stitched out beautifully. Directions were easy to use and accurate. The only negative is this project waste a lot of water soluble fabric, but that is to be expected with ITH projects.
    Reply
    Pat W Sep 13, 2014
    Do not throw away the water soluble stabilizer that you cut away in this and other projects. If you are doing free standing lace and too much stabilizer is washed away you can place your scraps in a plate of water and re-dip the FSL. It will stiffen your project again. You can also use the scraps when you are doing cut work and you inadvertently snip the underlying stabilizer. Spray a little adhesive spray on a scrap of water soluble stabilizer and attach to the back of the cutwork. Problem solved.
    Reply

    cynthia s Nov 14, 2014
    I am beginning this project and am curious as to why you use two pieces of stablizer instead of one. Also, why do you use the fibrous instead of the film? I am excited to see my finished project.
    Reply
    cynthia s Nov 17, 2014
    So, I have now finished my second angel. They are so beautiful. The directions are easy to follow, explaining each step to its fullest. I made the second angel with gold thread.
    Reply

    Pat W Aug 05, 2015
    I always use two layers of fibrous water soluble stabilizer for strength. It just holds the stitches with out tearing better. The film type of water soluble product is a topping not a stabilizer and should be used for other purposes such as holding down loops on a towel.
    Reply
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