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Ohio Star 27” x 27” Wall Hanging

(Click to View All Images)


Materials
  • 2 yards cream fabric
  • 1 1/4 yards rust fabric
  • 1½ yards green fabric
  • 4 ½ yards of Battilizer® 24” wide (or an equivalent amount of poly-mesh cut away and low loft quilt batting. When you are using poly-mesh and batting combination, hoop the poly-mesh stabilizer on the bottom and the batting on the top next to your quilting fabric.
  • Water soluble thread
  • Invisible thread
  • Embroidery thread
          a. Green thread to match fabric with matching bobbin
          b. Cream thread to match fabric with matching bobbin
          c. Neutral thread and bobbins for placement lines and seam
          d. Rust thread to match border and bobbin for the sewing machine
  • Spray adhesive
  • 6” embroidery hoop or larger. (Note: If you are using a hoop larger than 6” cut the Battilizer® at least 1” larger than the hoop on all sides. Adjust the amount of Battilizer that you need accordingly.)
  • Regular sewing machine for assembly
  • Walking foot for your sewing machine
  • Tweezers to bring your bobbin thread to the top

  • Designs used in this project

    Final Product: What You Will Create

    Preface:
    All blocks are made and quilted “In the Hoop”.
     


    Cutting Instructions
    1. Cut 45 8” cream squares
    2. Cut 9 8” green squares - sub-cut 4 of these diagonally
    3. Cut 4 8” rust squares
    4. Cut 25 12” squares of Battilizer®
    5. Cut 4 2” wide strips for sashing from green fabric 36” long
    6. Cut 4 2.5” wide strips for binding of dark rust 36” long
    7. Cut 1 9” x 28” rectangle of cream fabric for hanging sleeve


    General Instructions - Bringing Up the Bobbin Thread
    After the back fabric is placed on any of the squares, you will want to bring up the bobbin thread before you start the quilting stitching. This will keep the back of your quilt nice and neat.
     
    1. To do this, place the hoop in the machine.
    2. Feed the top thread through the presser foot.
    3. Holding on to the tail of the thread press your needle up button twice while pulling gently on the upper thread tail. This will bring the bobbin thread to the top of your materials.
    4. You might need to use tweezers to grab that bobbin thread and hold it with the top thread for a few stitches of the quilting pattern.
    5. Stop the machine and trim the threads.
    6. Continue sewing the quilting pattern.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Embroidery Instructions - Clamshell In The Hoop - Make 1
    1. Hoop a 12” square of Battilizer®. With neutral thread on the top of your machine and regular bobbin thread stitch the outline.
    2. Lightly spray the backside of a Green square with spray adhesive. Place the green fabric over the outline so all edges are covered by at least ½”.
    3. Load water soluble thread into the top of the machine only and stitch the tack down.
    4. Remove the hoop from the machine. Turn your hoop over and spray the back side of the Battilizer® with adhesive spray and place a square of your cream background fabric on the back making sure the fabric exceeds the outline by at least ½” on all sides.
    5. Return the hoop to the machine and stitch the tack down line for the backing with the water soluble thread in the top of the machine.
    6. Place contrasting thread on the top and in the bobbin of the machine. Bring up bobbin thread.
    7. Stitch the quilting design.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    In The Hoop Half Triangle - Make 8
    1. Hoop the Battilizer® - with neutral thread stitch the outline
    2. Remove the hoop and lightly spray the Battilizer with adhesive spray
    3. Place a cream fabric square over the outline covering the outline by at least ½” on all sides.
    4. With water soluble thread on top only, stitch the tack down line.

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    5. Fold back the lower triangle and trim the fabric on the left side of the hoop to ¼”.

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    6. Place a green triangle over the cream square right sides together.

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    7. Load neutral thread on the top and stitch the seam line.

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    8. Fold back the green triangle and finger press very smoothly over the Battilizer®
    9. With water soluble thread stitch the tack down for the lower triangle.

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    10. Very important: place scotch tape over the two sections of the block where the cream and green meet at the diagonal corners. This will prevent those loose corners from being lifted up by the presser foot during the quilting process.

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    11. Remove the hoop from the machine, turn it over and spray the back of the Battilizer® with spray adhesive. Smooth a square of the back fabric over the outlines making sure all outlines are exceeded by at least ½”.
    12. With water soluble thread in the top only stitch the tack down line.
    13. Load green thread into the top and bobbin of the machine.
    14. Place the hoop in the machine and bring the bobbin thread up. Stitch the stipple quilting.
    15. Load the cream thread into the top and bobbin of the machine and bring the bobbin thread up. Stitch the modified clam shell quilting.
    16. Load green thread in top and bobbin, bring the bobbin thread up and stitch detail line on triangle.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Stippled In The Hoop - Make 8
    1. Hoop the Battilizer®, with neutral thread in the machine and bobbin sew outline.
    2. Spray the Battilizer®, place cream fabric square on top exceeding the outlines by at least ½” on all sides. With water soluble thread in the top only sew tack down.
    3. Remove the hoop and spray the back of the Battilizer® with water soluble thread in the top only and stitch the tack down for back.
    4. Load green thread green top and bobbin, bring the bobbin thread up and sew the stipple quilting.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Quarter Triangle In The Hoop - Make 4
    1. Hoop Battilizer®, stitch outline with neutral thread.
    2. Spray Battilizer®, place cream fabric on top.
    3. Stitch tack down with WS thread on top only.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    4. Trim the right and left side triangles out leaving a 1/4” edge.
    5. Place the green fabric on top of the whole hoop.
    6. Stitch the tack down seams with green thread on top only.

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    7. With very sharp small scissors trim the excess green fabric from the top and bottom triangles. Trim right up to the stitching as for applique.

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    8. Important: place scotch tape on all corners to keep excess fabric from flipping upwards in the sewing process.

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    9. Remove the hoop from the machine, spray the back of the Battilizer® with adhesive spray.
    10. Smooth cream fabric in place on the back.
    11. Stitch tack down line with water soluble thread in the top only.
    12. Load green thread in top and bobbin - bring bobbin thread to top and- stitch first quilt section.
    13. Bring bobbin thread to top again and stitch bottom quilt section.
    14. Load cream thread in top and bobbin - bring bobbin thread to top and stitch left triangle.
    15. Bring bobbin thread to top again and stitch right triangle.
    16. Load green thread in top and bobbin, bring the bobbin thread up and stitch the detail lines on the triangles.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Leaf In The Hoop - Make 4
    1. Hoop Battilizer® with neutral thread in the top and bobbin sew the outline.
    2. Spray the adhesive on the Battilizer®, place the rust fabric over the outline making sure that all edges are exceeded by at least ½”. With water soluble thread stitch the tack down stitch.
    3. Remove the hoop from the machine. Spray the back of the Battilizer® with adhesive spray. Place the cream fabric on the back making sure all edges are exceeded by ½”. With water soluble thread sew the tack down.
    4. Load cream thread in the top and bobbin, bring up bobbin thread.
    5. Sew leaf quilting pattern.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Assembly - Trimming the Blocks
    1. Lay out your quilt blocks according to the diagram in Fig 17 on a table top of quilt board.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    2. Place a straight pin through all layers of the blocks that will be the outside edges of the quilt. You may use another method of marking them if desired, but you do want to mark them as they are trimmed differently than all the other sections of the quilt blocks.

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    3. All inside edges of the blocks will have the batting removed from the seam allowances. The batting will remain in the outsides edges of the blocks.
    4. To remove the batting from the inside block seam allowances.
     
       a. Fold back the seam allowance on both the front and back of the block side.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


       b. With scissors trim the batting as close to the basting threads as possible. It is suggested that you don’t use a rotary cutter for this process as it would be too easy to nip your seam allowances.

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       c. A finished outside edge block would look like this one in Fig 22. The outside edge would have the batting remaining as part of the block. The batting is removed from all other edges. Remember on the four corner blocks to leaving batting in two sides. One side would be the edge of the quilt, the other side would be either the top or bottom of the quilt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Pinning the Blocks Together
    Proper pinning of the blocks will insure that all of your blocks and points will line up perfectly. Due to the thickness of the blocks extras steps are required in the pinning process to accomplish this. You will want to sew 5 strips of five blocks together, so starting at the top or bottom of the quilt:
     
    1. Lay an outside edge block face down on the block next to it in your row.
    2. Place a pin held vertically through the exact corner stitch of the basting lines in your block.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    3. Place the pin through the exact corner of the bottom block and push through both quilt blocks.

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    4. The place a horizontal pin next to the vertical pin securing the two blocks together. Repeat this procedure in the center of the two blocks and at both edges of the blocks.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    5. Remove the vertical pins and lift back the top block just to see that the basting threads on both blocks line up perfectly.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Sewing the Blocks Together
    1. Your machine will be sewing through a lot of thicknesses so now is a good time to put in a new size 11 sewing machine needle. Attach your walking foot to your machine.
    2. With a 3.5 mm length straight stitch, stitch the two blocks together right on the basting lines that were made on the embroidery machine. Remove the pins as you sew.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    3. Pressing is an important part of the sewing on these blocks. First press the seam flat with both seam allowances to one side. Then press the seam open on the inside. Finally using a ham if you have one, steam the seam from the top side. This is all about getting the seam as flat as possible.

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    4. Trim the seam allowance to 3/8” inch.

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    5. Repeat the above 4 steps to join the remaining four blocks in the row.
    6. Repeat for the remaining 4 rows of blocks in the wall hanging.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Sashing
    Before the strips are sewn together to make the wall hanging the seams of the individual blocks have to be sashed. This is done as follows:
     
    1. Fold the 2” strips into thirds by folding one side in to meet the other and press.

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    2. Pin the folded sashing strip right side up over the trimmed seam of a block.

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    3. With invisible thread on the top and in the bobbin of your regular sewing machine, using a Serpentine stitch, starting about ¾” from inside the edge of the block, stitch down both sides of the sashing. End the line of stitching ¾” before you get to the edge of the bottom of the block. Using a Serpentine stitch disappears on the right side of the quilt. If you use a straight stitch it will show on the right side of the quilt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    4. Repeat the above 3 steps on all seams joining blocks across each strip.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Joining Rows
    1. Place two rows right sides together and pin using the two pin method as described in joining the blocks.

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    2. Stitch with regular sewing machine thread.
    3. Press the seams together – then press them open as described in joining the blocks.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    4. Trim the seams to 3/8”
    5. After the rows are all joined together – check to make sure you have every row in its correct position and sash the rows with long strips of sashing, using the same method as described above and using invisible thread in the top and bobbin of the machine.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Finishing the Wall Hanging
    1. Trim all outside edges of the quilt through all three layers to ½”.
    2. Bind the hoop with the rust 2 ½” strips following the instructions in our article “Binding an In The Hoop Quilt Block" project.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Attaching a Hanging Sleeve
    To hang your wall quilt from a rod, you need to add a hanging sleeve. Here are some easy instructions to do so:
     
    1. Cut a rectangle of cream fabric 9” wide by 28” long.
    2. On each short side of the rectangle fold in ½” and press and fold in again and press.

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    3. Stitch the hem on the two short ends with regular thread.
    4. Fold the rectangle right sides together on its long sides and stitch ½” seam. The seam will be placed against the quilt so it will not show.

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    5. Fold the rectangle so that the seam will be in the center back. Fold and press an unsewn pleat in the front of the sleeve. This pleat is used to place a little slack in the sleeve to allow the rod to go through without distorting the wall hanging.

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    6. Place the sleeve on the quilt about ¾” from the top edges. Stitch down on the long sides with invisible thread and a serpentine stitch.

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    Hang and wait for those compliments to come in.
     
    For the love of embroidery..
    Pat Williams

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    Share this project:     
    Meet The Author: Pat Williams
    Award winning Digitizer, Embroidery Educator, Author and a Consultant to the Industry, Pat Williams has 20 years of experience in the embroidery industry. Pat has won multiple awards for her digitizing expertise including the 2007 Impressions Awards Grand Championship, Best of Show as well as the 1st and 2nd Place Awards.. Pat’s love of digitizing has afforded her the opportunity to write many articles for Impressions magazine in the United States and Images Magazine in Europe. She also has authored her own digitizing training CD series, “Digitizing Steps to Success.” In 2001 Pat was named “Embroidery Educator of the Year.” For many years Pat lead digitizing seminars at the ISS Shows in Long Beach, CA and for Compucon software. Pat retired from the commercial embroidery arena in 2010. She now resides in Sierra Vista, AZ. She can be reached at pwilliams22@cox.net.

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