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ITH Heirloom Heart Wall Hanging

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  • 1/3rd yard of Battilizer (a combination of stabilizer and low loft batting)
  • Or a 12” x 24” strip of poly-mesh stabilizer and a 12”x24” strip of low-loft batting
  • 1/3rd yard of white Kona cloth
  • ¼ yard of Sea Foam green cotton fabric
  • Spray Adhesive
  • Regular sewing thread to match the Sea Foam green fabric
  • Invisible Thread
  • Water Soluble Thread
  • Embroidery thread Madeira rayon Lt Pink 1116, Lt Green 1101, White, 1001, Med Green 1392, Med Pink 1117, Lt Lime 1248, Lt Lt Sage 1100
  • 3/8” wooden dowel cut to 9” length and wooden balls to fit ends
  • White acrylic paint for dowel and balls
  • 5” x 7” embroidery hoop
  • Embroidery and regular sewing machines

  • Designs used in this project

    All the quilted in the hoop blocks are made in the same manner. You can choose any Heirloom Heart Quilt block PW01-HQB01 through PW01-HQB12. So, choose the three that are your favorites and proceed as follows:

    Step 1:

    Cut your wooden 3/8” dowel to 9” in length and paint it and the wooden balls for the ends with white acrylic paint.

    Step 2:

    Cut a Strip of Battilizer 12” deep, it is 24” wide. Or cut a 12” x 24” strip of poly-mesh stabilizer and low loft batting.  If using the poly mesh stabilizer and low loft batting place the poly mesh stabilizer on top of the low loft batting.

    Step 3:

    Cut a strip of Kona cloth 12”x24”.

    Step 4:

    Cut three 8” squares of Kona cloth.

    Step 5:

    Place the Kona cloth on top of the Battilizer and hoop close to the right side edge of the strip.

    Step 6:
    Roll up the extra fabric on the left and pin to secure. Using this method of hooping a strip will save you approximately a third of the cost of the backing and material.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 7:
    Embroider the design you have chosen, following its color sequence until you get to the color change that is for Water Soluble thread.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 8:
    Load Water Soluble thread in the top of your machine, this is the placement line for the back of your quilt. Stitch the placement line.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 9:

    Remove the hoop from the machine.

    Step 10:
    Spray adhesive spray on an 8” square of Kona cloth and place over the back of the embroidery, have the square exceed the placement line on all sides by at least ½”.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)


    Step 11:

    Return the hoop to the machine and stitch the tack down stitch to hold the back fabric with water soluble thread.

    Step 12:

    The remainder of the color sequences is all stitched with white embroidery thread for the quilting stitches.  There are stops in the design so that you can bring up the bobbin thread to the top of the work at each stop to avoid tangled threads on the back of your quilt block.

    Step 13:
    To bring up the bobbin thread; feed the top thread through the presser foot; while holding on to the top thread press the needle up button twice; pull the bobbin thread to the same length as your top thread tail; holding onto both the top and bobbin thread start the machine and sew a few stitches; stop the machine and trim both the top and bobbin thread tails; complete the quilting of that section.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 14:
    Remove the embroidery from the hoop; line up your see through ruler at the ½” mark with the water soluble thread tack down line on the side of the block; with a rotary cutter trim just that one side edge of the block.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 15:
    Re-hoop the fabric and Battilizer close to the right side edge of the remaining strip.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 16:

    Repeat steps 7 through 15 with the second Heirloom Heart block you have selected.

    Step 17:
    After trimming the second block from the strip of fabric and Battilizer you should have just enough material left to hoop for the third quilt block.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 18:

    Repeat steps 7 through 14 for the third Heirloom Heart Block that you have selected.

    Step 19:
    Layout the three completed Heirloom Heart Blocks to determine the order that you want them to appear in the wall hanging as the position of each block will determine how it is trimmed.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 20:
    Using a rotary cutter and the see though ruler placed at the appropriate markings lined up with the water soluble tack down line trim the blocks as follows:

    a.    The top block is trimmed to ½” on the top and both side edges, the bottom of this block is trimmed to ¼”
    b.    The middle block is trimmed to ½” on both the right and left side; it is trimmed to ¼” on the top and bottom edges.
    c.    The bottom block is trimmed to ½” on both the right, left and bottom edges; the top edge is trimmed to ¼”.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)


    Step 21:
    Lay out the three blocks in their respective positions again.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 22:
    Take the top two blocks to your regular sewing machine and butt the bottom edge of the first block to the top edge of the second block. Do not overlap the edges.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 23:
    With regular sewing thread and a wide zigzag stitch, stitch the two edges together.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 24:

    Butt the bottom edge of the second block to the top edge of the third block and stitch with a zigzag stitch.

    Step 25:

    Cut two 8” strips of sea foam green fabric 1” wide.

    Step 26:

    Cut two 8” strips of sea foam green fabric 1 ¼” wide.

    Step 27:

    Fold the length wise edges to the middle of the strips and press. The smaller strips are the sashing for the back of the wall hanging.  The wider strips are the sashing for the front.

    Step 28:

    Put invisible thread in the top and bobbin of your regular sewing machine.

    Step 29:
    Apply the sashing to the back of the wall hanging by placing one end of the narrower sashing over the top of the zigzag stitching between two blocks. Place the end of the sashing right on the water soluble thread tack down line.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 30:

    It is usually recommended that you use a Serpentine stitch to stich down the edges of the sashing strip. However, the machine used for this sample did not have a Serpentine stitch, so a zigzag was used. Stitch just to the tack down stitch on the far side and trim the strip.

    Step 31:

    Repeat 29 and 30 for the second back sashing strip.

    Step 32:
    The same method is used to apply the wider sashing strips to the front of the wall hanging, except, on these strips, allow the beginning and ending of the strip to extend beyond the tack down stitching on the block by ¼”.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 33:
    Take an 8” strip of sea foam green that is 1 ¼” wide.  Bring the side edges together in the center and press. Fold in half again, press. Stitch down the folded edge with matching thread. Cut this strip in half to create two 4” lengths.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 34:

    Fold each 4” length of loop in half.  Place the loops so the raw edges are about ¼” above the tack down line. Place them so the outside edges of the loops are ¼” inside the tack down line.

    Step 35:
    Stitch in place with a straight stitch.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

    Step 36:
    Bind the quilt as you desire. The sample quilt was bound with two 2.14” strips of sea foam green following the instructions given in our free article Binding and In the Hoop Quilt Project

    Step 37:
    Slip the dowel through the two loops of the wall hanging and attach the balls.

    Step 38:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    Congratulations, your project is complete. Working with small In the Hoop quilt projects like this one will certainly familiarize you with in the hoop techniques to take you to larger projects. Enjoy!

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    Meet The Author: Pat Williams
    Award winning Digitizer, Embroidery Educator, Author and a Consultant to the Industry, Pat Williams has 20 years of experience in the embroidery industry. Pat has won multiple awards for her digitizing expertise including the 2007 Impressions Awards Grand Championship, Best of Show as well as the 1st and 2nd Place Awards.. Pat’s love of digitizing has afforded her the opportunity to write many articles for Impressions magazine in the United States and Images Magazine in Europe. She also has authored her own digitizing training CD series, “Digitizing Steps to Success.” In 2001 Pat was named “Embroidery Educator of the Year.” For many years Pat lead digitizing seminars at the ISS Shows in Long Beach, CA and for Compucon software. Pat retired from the commercial embroidery arena in 2010. She now resides in Sierra Vista, AZ. She can be reached at

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    Linda Kay B Jun 10, 2014
    These designs sew out fantastic. I have bought the whole set and have almost finished a little girls quilt. Pat does a great job of digitizing. I have lots of her designs and my wish list is growing longer.
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