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Ocean Explorer Vest with ITH Pouches

(Click to View All Images)


Materials
  • Book “Oliver + S Little Things to Sew” available on Amazon for the vest pattern
  • See the book for materials required to make the vest – use a nautical print for the lining
  • Add 1 5” length of ½” twill tape to the materials listed in the book
  • 1 fat quarter or scraps for the outside of each pouch
  • 1 fat quarter or scraps for the lining of each pouch
  • ¼ yard of fusible knit interfacing
  • Scrap of Heat N Bond Lite®
  • 2 7” or longer nylon zippers
  • 2 6” lengths of twill tape
  • 30” of ½” rick rack or ribbon for the jellyfish
  • No-show Stabilizer
  • 2 plastic lobster clips with keyrings
  • Spray Adhesive
  • Magic Sizing® or Spray Starch
  • Cellophane Tape
  • Embroidery Tape

  • Designs used in this project

    Final Product: What You Will Create

    Preface:
    The book “Oliver + S Little Things to Sew” is chock full of great things to make for children. The vest pattern with the beveled pockets instructions are very good. You will make the vest following those instructions. Cut out the vest. Instructions are given below to embellish the vest with embroidery before you construct the vest. Even with all of the pockets on the vest children love extra zippered pouches to stash their findings. Full instructions to make these ITH lined, zippered, pouches are below. 


    Step 1:
    To embroider the top pockets: Hoop no show stabilizer in a 4” x 4” embroidery hoop and mark the center of hoop.

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    Step 2:
    Determine placement for your embroidery by measuring down 1” from the top of the pocket which is an allowance for the hem and make a mark. Measure up ½” from the bottom of the pocket, which is for the seam allowance and make a mark. Measure half way between these two marks to find the center between these two points for the embroidery and mark. Spray adhesive on the back of the pocket and align the center point on the stabilizer with the center mark on the pocket.  

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 3:
    Stitch the embroidery following the color chart; trim the stabilizer close to the embroidery. Note: The flap was omitted from the right bottom pocket in order to not cover the embroidery. Embroidery was omitted from the left bottom pocket so that the flap could be added with a snap.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 4:
    To determine placement for the embroidery on the back of the vest mark the placement lines from the pattern for the large pocket onto the fabric and one in the center between those marks. Measure up 3 1/2“ from those marks and draw a horizontal line to use as a guide to hoop the vest back. 

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    Step 5:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    Spray adhesive on the back of the vest back and position in a 5” x 7” hoop, be sure to rotate the back design in the proper orientation so that the top of the lettering is at the top of the vest.


    Step 6:
    With these four embroideries completed you are ready to follow the instructions in the pattern book to complete the vest with two minor exceptions.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 7:
    When stitching the right hand pocket fold the 5” of twill tape in half and slip 1/2” under the seam below the hem of the pocket. This will be the loop that you can clip the pouches to the vest. The second exception is to omit the flap on the right hand pocket.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 8:
    For the fish pouch cut:
    From the outside fabric, lining fabric and interfacing 5 ½” x 5” rectangles for the bottom of the fish
    From contrasting fabric, lining fabric and interfacing 2” x 5” rectangles for the fish face
    For the back of the fish cut from the outside fabric, lining fabric and interfacing cut 7 1/2” x 6” rectangles.
    For the fin applique cut contrasting fabric and Heat N Bond Lite® 3” x 2 ½”

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 9:
    Press all fabrics with Magic Sizing®; fuse the fusible knit interfacing to the outside fabrics for the bottom, top and back of the fish; fuse Heat N Bond Lite® to the fin applique piece.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 10:
    Tautly hoop no-show stabilizer in a 5” x 7” embroidery hoop. Run color stop (CS) 1 as an outline of the design as well as zipper placement lines.

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    Step 11:
    Tape the nylon zipper face up with the zipper ends well outside the embroidery area across the zipper placement lines. The pull on the zipper should be to the left of the embroidery design.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 12:
    Run CS 2 to tack down the zipper.

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    Step 13:
    Tape the top edge of the face contrast fabric right side down at the top edge of the zipper (Fig A); tape the top edge of the lining fabric right side down on the back of the embroidery hoop at the top edge of the zipper (Fig B); run CS 3 to seam the fabric to the zipper.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 14:
    Remove the hoop from the machine, spray adhesive on the back of the face fabric and smooth up towards the top of the hoop. Run CS 4 in white and CS 5 in black to embroidery the eye and mouth.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 15:
    Remove the hoop from the machine; spray adhesive on the wrong side of the lining fabric and smooth up towards the top of the hoop (Fig A). Run CS 6 in a contrasting color to top stitch the zipper and fabrics.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 16:
    Align the top edge of the bottom fabric, right side down with the bottom edge of the zipper (Fig A); tape along the edges to hold in place. Turn the hoop over and align the top edge of the lining fabric, right side down, on the back of the zipper and tape the side edges down (Fig B). To keep the end of the lining in place pin the lining to the stabilizer outside of the hoop (Fig C). Run CS 6 as a seam line.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 17:
    Remove the hoop from the machine, spray adhesive on the back of the front fabric and smooth over the hoop. Leave the lining fabric taped and pinned in place. Run CS 8 to stitch the decorative stitching.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 18:
    Remove the paper backing from the applique fabric, spray it with a little adhesive and position it over the fin area of the fish (Fig A); run CS 9 to tack down the applique; trim approximately 1/8th” around the fin and then press with an applique iron.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 19:
    Spray adhesive on the back of the lining fabric and smooth down over the lower fish body.
    Run CS 10 to top stitch the fabric, zipper and lining together.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 20:
    Run CS 11 as a placement line for the twill tape. Fold the 6” of twill tape in half and use cellophane tape to tape it so that the folded edge is over the embroidery and that the ends extend about ½” past the placement line. Run CS 12 to tack it down. Remove the tape.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 21:
    IMPORTANT: Open the zipper about ½ way across the zipper. If you fail to do this you will not be able to turn the pouch right side out.

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    Step 22:
    Place the back outside fabric right side down over the project, tape it down to secure it and run CS 13 to stitch it to the front of the fish.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 23:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    Remove the hoop from the machine, do not unhoop. Place the hoop face down on a flat surface, securely tape the lining, right side down, over the back of the project.


    Step 24:
    Return the hoop to the machine and run CS 14 as the final seam.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 25:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    There is a final CS listed on your machine and labeled DO NOT STITCH on the color chart. Simply remove the hoop from the machine and do not run this last color stop. It is there to keep your machine from returning to the center of the hoop and making a stitch.


    Step 26:
    Trim from the back side of the project as it is easier to see the opening left for turning. Trim ¼” around the project except at the opening leave a ½” seam allowance. Clip around all the inner and outer curves.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 27:
    Turn the project right side out. To reduce bulk lay back the seam allowances of the two lining fabric and trim the stabilizer and outside fabrics close to the stitching line (Fig A). With a seam ripper and or small scissors remove the stabilizer from behind the zipper (Fig B). Turn in the lining seam allowances and whip stitch shut. This does not have to be too neat as they won’t ever be seen again (Fig C).

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 28:
    Open the zipper fully and turn the project right side out.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 29:
    Press the pouch with a steam iron. Attach the key ring lobster clasp to the loop.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 30:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    For the Jellyfish you will need to cut:
    From the outer fabric, lining and fusible knit interfacing 2 2”x 6” rectangles for the top; 2 4 ½” x 6” rectangles for the bottom and 2 6” x 6” rectangles for the back. You will also need 5 6” tentacles of ½” wide rick rack and a zipper that is 7” or longer and a 6” piece of twill tape for the loop. Press all fabrics with spray starch and fuse the knit interfacing to the back of the outside fabrics.


    Step 31:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    The Jelly Fish pouch is made in the same manner as the Fish pouch. Run CS 1 as an outline and placement line for the zipper Fig (A). Tape the zipper in place right side up with the zipper pull and ends well outside of the hoop. Run CS 2 to tack the zipper down.


    Step 32:
    Tape the 2” x 6” outer fabric to the top of the zipper tape and the lining fabric to the back of the hoop in the same position (Fig A). Run CS 3 to seam the fabrics (Fig B). Remove the hoop from the machine and spray adhesive on the lining fabric and smooth towards the top of the hoop (Fig C). Spray adhesive on the back of the front fabric and smooth towards the top of the hoop (Fig D). Run CS 4 to top stitch the fabrics.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 33:
    Tape the 4 ½” x 6” rectangle of fabric to the bottom edge of the zipper right side down on the front of the hoop (Fig A), tape the corresponding lining fabric to the bottom of the zipper on the back of the hoop (Fig B); seam them together with CS 5. Spray adhesive on the back of the front fabric only and smooth it over the placement lines (Fig C). Leave the lining fabric taped to the back. Run CS 6 in white and CS 7 in black to stitch the face (Fig D). Spray adhesive on the lining fabric and smooth down over the back of the placement line, run CS 8 to topstitch the front fabric, zipper and lining.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 34:
    To attach the rick rack tentacles to the jelly fish run CS 8 as a placement line, place a strip of rick rack ½” below the placement line and tape into place, run the next CS to tack down the rick rack, remove the tape . Repeat this sequence 4 more times to place all 5 tentacles.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 35:
    Color stop 19 will make a placement line for the twill tape loop at the top of the head. Fold the twill tape in half, place the raw edges about ½” over the placement line tape in place directly over the placement line. Run CS 20 to tack down the twill tape. Remove the tape.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 36:
    IMPORTANT: Open the zipper half way across the project. If you fail to do this you will not be able to turn the pouch right side out.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 37:
    Position all tentacles and the loop inside the project – you can tape the ends of the tentacles down with cellophane tape if desired below the zipper to make sure they don’t get caught in the next two steps (Fig A). Place the back fabric face down over the whole project and run CS 21 to stitch down the back.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 38:
    Remove the hoop from the machine, do not unhoop; tape the lining fabric (face down if you are using a print) over the whole project. Return the hoop to the machine which will stitch the lining back to the project leaving an opening for turning. There is a final CS listed on your machine and labeled DO NOT STITCH on the color chart. Simply remove the hoop from the machine and do not run this last color stop. It is there to keep your machine from returning to the center of the hoop and making a stitch.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 39:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    Follow the instructions in Steps 26 through Step 29 to turn the jellyfish right side out. Attach the key ring lobster clasp to the loop.
     


    Step 40:
    Attach the pouches to the loop on the pocket side of the vest. Congratulations your Ocean Explorer Vest and pouches are complete!

    (Click Image to Enlarge)


    For the love of embroidery…
    Pat Williams


    Share this project:     
    Meet The Author: Pat Williams
    Award winning Digitizer, Embroidery Educator, Author and a Consultant to the Industry, Pat Williams has 20 years of experience in the embroidery industry. Pat has won multiple awards for her digitizing expertise including the 2007 Impressions Awards Grand Championship, Best of Show as well as the 1st and 2nd Place Awards.. Pat’s love of digitizing has afforded her the opportunity to write many articles for Impressions magazine in the United States and Images Magazine in Europe. She also has authored her own digitizing training CD series, “Digitizing Steps to Success.” In 2001 Pat was named “Embroidery Educator of the Year.” For many years Pat lead digitizing seminars at the ISS Shows in Long Beach, CA and for Compucon software. Pat retired from the commercial embroidery arena in 2010. She now resides in Sierra Vista, AZ. She can be reached at pwilliams22@cox.net.

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