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Little Fox Baby Quilt

(Click to View All Images)


Materials
  • 8” x 8” embroidery hoop or larger
  • 4” x 4” embroidery hoop for corner blocks
  • 1 24 Pack of 10” squares “Sweet Dreams” (Fat Quarter Shop online)
  • 1 yard of white Kona cloth
  • ¾ yards Sweet Dreams Little One Orange Crosshatch (Fat Quarter Shop online)
  • 1 ¼ yards Sweet Dreams Little One Teal Crosshatch (Fat Quarter Shop online)
  • 3 yards of 24” wide Battilizer® or low loft batting
  • 5 ¾ yards of poly mesh stabilizer
  • Spray Adhesive
  • Magic Sizing® or spray starch
  • Water Soluble Thread
  • Embroidery thread per the color charts
  • Craft or Wonder Clips

  • Designs used in this project
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/DesignPack/1/DPLFBQProj.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/DesignPack/1/DPLFBQMega.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ12.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ11.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ10.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ09.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ08.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ07.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ06.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ05.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ04.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ03.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ02.aspx
  • https://www.embroiderydesigns.com/productdetails/Pat-Williams/StockDesign/1/LFBQ01.aspx

  • Final Product: What You Will Create

    Preface:
    There are 10 fox embroidery designs available, choose 6 for the quilt as well as the stippled filler block and corner block designs. The quilt blocks can be joined together using the method prescribed below or you can use the method of zigzagging the blocks together and applying the sashing with invisible thread as is done in our Sun Bonnet Sue quilt. If you choose to use the optional method for applying the sashing please see that project for the widths to cut your strips.


    Step 1:
    Precut squares are so convenient for making these 8” blocks in the embroidery hoop. But if you choose to cut your own, cut 18 10” and 4 5” squares of assorted prints. Cut 6 10” squares and 4 5” squares from white Kona cloth for the embroidered blocks. Cut 12 10” and 4 5” squares of Battilizer® or low loft batting.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 2:
    For each embroidery block hoop poly mesh stabilizer in your hoop and choose one white and one print 10” square as well as a 10” square of Battilizer®.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 3:
    Load the chosen Little Fox quilt block design into your machine; run color stop (CS) 1 as a placement line for your block. You can use white thread for this. The picture is shown with a darker thread to make it easier for you to see.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 4:
    Spray adhesive on the back of a Battilizer® 10” square and position over the placement lines having the Battilizer® exceed the outline by ½” in all directions.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 5:
    Spray adhesive on a white Kona cloth square and align with the Battilizer®.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 6:
    Run CS 2 in water soluble thread to tack down the batting and fabric to the stabilizer.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 7:
    Follow the color chart to embroider the fox and flowers stopping before you stitch the last two color changes.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 8:
    Remove the hoop from the machine; do not unhoop; turn the hoop face down; spray adhesive on the wrong side of a back square of fabric and place over the back of the embroidery.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 9:
    Return the hoop to the machine. Lift the top left corner of your fabrics and batting and check that the back fabric did not get folded down when you reinserted the hoop into the machine. Run the next to last CS in water soluble thread to tack down the back fabric.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 10:
    Run the last CS in white thread (or desired color) to quilt the block.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 11:
    Lay the ¼” mark of a see through ruler along the water soluble stitch lines and trim all edges of the quilt block to ¼”.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 12:
    Repeating steps 2 through 11 make 5 more embroidered blocks.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 13:
    For each filler block you will need 2 10” print squares as well as a Battilizer® square.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 14:
    Run CS 1 in any color as a placement line.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 15:
    Spray adhesive on the Battilizer® and position over the placement line; spray adhesive on the top print fabric and smooth over the Battilizer®. The pink shown in this picture is just a little piece of embroidery tape holding back the top fabric so you can see the Battilizer® under the top fabric.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 16:
    Before you return the hoop to the machine, turn the hoop over, spray adhesive on the wrong side of the block back fabric and position on the back of the hoop.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 17:
    Run CS 2 in water soluble thread to tack down all three layers of the quilt sandwich. Run CS 3 in white or desired color to quilt the block. Trim the block as in step 11.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 18:
    Make a total of 6 filler blocks. Lay out as desired with the embroidered blocks.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 19:
    The 4 corner blocks are made in a 4” x 4” hoop using Steps 2 through 11 with 5” squares of fabric, Battilizer® and back fabric. Use water soluble thread where called for but use different colors of embroidery thread in the wings if desired. The two corner blocks on the right in the picture have been reversed as shown in the next step.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 20:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    Run two corner blocks with the butterfly orientated as in the design. Then flip the design at your machine. An icon on your embroidery machine as shown will flip the design or consult your manual if you don’t see an icon like this. Make two of the blocks with the design flipped.


    Step 21:
    Cut 9 1” strips; 9 2” strips for sashing. Cut 4 2 ¼” strips (or your desired width) for binding from the Teal Crosshatch fabric.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 22:
    Iron the 1” strips with Magic Sizing® or spray starch; fold the 2” strips in half lengthwise and press with spray starch or Magic Sizing.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 23:
    Set up your sewing machine to join the block together. You will need:

    a. A size 12 needle sharp or universal point.
    b. Thread to match the sashing in the top of the machine.
    c. The bobbin thread will show on the back of the quilt, I chose to keep mine white to match the quilting on the back of the quilt.
    d. A walking foot is recommended. Mine will engage into the back of a ¼” foot. If you have to choose between a ¼” presser foot and a walking foot choose the walking foot and use another method to ensure you get ¼” seams.
    e. Set your stitch length to 3mm, it makes it easier to sew through the thickness of the blocks.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 24:
    The 1” and 2” strips of sashing are attached to the right hand side of the quilt block at the same time. Place the 1” strip face down on the back right hand edge of your first block having a little extra sashing extending over the top and bottom of the block; at the same time place the raw edges of the 2” sashing on the front of the quilt block. Align the edges of the top sashing, quilt block and back sashing and clip in place. Stitch through all layers with an accurate ¼” seam.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 25:
    Press the back sashing out away from the quilt block.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 26:
    Lay the filler block face down, align the embroidered block’s back sashing strip on top with the left hand edge of the filler block. Clip the back sashing strip to the filler block. Make sure the edges of the filler block line up with the embroidered block top and bottom.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 27:
    Stitch the sashing to the filler block with an accurate ¼” seam.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 28:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    When you open out the two blocks the seam allowances should butt up next to each other without gaps or overlaps.


    Step 29:
    Press the 2” folded sashing over the seam allowances and stitch down close the folded edge.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 30:
    Stitch the back and front sashing strips to the right side of the filler block as in Step 24. Then attach an embroidered block as you did in steps 25 through 29.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 31:
    Trim the excess sashing from the top and bottom of this 1st row of blocks. 

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 32:
    Make three more rows of 3 blocks alternating embroidered and filler blocks.


    Step 33:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    Attach the front and back sashings to the bottom of the first row of blocks as you did in Step 24.


    Step 34:
    Clip the back sashing to the top of row 2 of blocks. Stitch a ¼” seam allowance; open out the rows; press the front sashing over the seam allowance and stitch down close to the folded edge.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 35:
    Repeat Steps 33 and 34 twice more to complete the joining of the blocks. Trim excess sashing from the edges of the quilt.


    Step 36:
    Cut 8 border strips 3” wide and 35” long. Cut 4 strips of Battilizer® 3” wide and 45” long. Place one strip of fabric face down on your cutting mat; spray adhesive on a Battilizer® strip and place over the fabric; spray adhesive on the back of a second fabric strip and align over the Battilizer® forming a quilt sandwich. Repeat 3 times to make a total of 4 border strips.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 37:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    Attach front and back sashing strips to both sides of the quilt in the same manner as you attached it to the blocks and rows. Sewing the sashing first to the quilt and then to the borders.


    Step 38:
    The quilt top will now look like this. Trim the excess borders from the top and bottom of the quilt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 39:
    Measure across the top and bottom of your quilt from ¼” into the sashing on the left and to the right ¼” into the sashing. This should be 24” but due to slight variations in seam allowance and trimming the exact measurement may vary. In this case I ended up with 23 ¾” measurement. Trim the top and bottom border pieces to your measurements.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 40:
    Attach a corner block to each end of the top and bottom borders by attaching the sashing first to the border and then to the corner block on each end. Attach the corner blocks with the butterflies facing left on the right side of the border and the butterflies facing right on the left side of the border strip.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 41:
    Attach the sashing strips in the prescribed manner to the quilt top and bottom and attach the top and bottom borders to the quilt.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 42:
    Trim the excess sashing from the corner blocks squaring up your quilt in the process.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 43:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    Bind as desired. Congratulations your Little Fox Baby Quilt is complete!


    Step 44:
    Wash your quilt before you give it away to remove the sprays and water soluble threads. Since water soluble thread is only used in the top of the machine, washing it away will leave loose bobbin thread on the back of the quilt wherever it wasn’t covered by the sashing. Clip these loose bobbin threads away.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)


    For the love of embroidery…
    Pat Williams


    Share this project:     
    Meet The Author: Pat Williams
    Award winning Digitizer, Embroidery Educator, Author and a Consultant to the Industry, Pat Williams has 20 years of experience in the embroidery industry. Pat has won multiple awards for her digitizing expertise including the 2007 Impressions Awards Grand Championship, Best of Show as well as the 1st and 2nd Place Awards.. Pat’s love of digitizing has afforded her the opportunity to write many articles for Impressions magazine in the United States and Images Magazine in Europe. She also has authored her own digitizing training CD series, “Digitizing Steps to Success.” In 2001 Pat was named “Embroidery Educator of the Year.” For many years Pat lead digitizing seminars at the ISS Shows in Long Beach, CA and for Compucon software. Pat retired from the commercial embroidery arena in 2010. She now resides in Sierra Vista, AZ. She can be reached at pwilliams22@cox.net.

    Feedback
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    Cheryl T Jan 08, 2018
    Very beautiful & I enjoyed studying each step but would like to have seen a picture of finished back as I can not figure out how there is not unfinished seams on the back.
    Reply
    Pat W Jul 23, 2018
    Cheryl, See Step 25 and 26. When you stitch the second block to the row you are stitching it to the second side of the back sashing.
    Reply
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