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Geometric Boyfriend Shirt

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Materials
  • White “boyfriend” style shirt
  • Fabric to create bias strips
  • Embroidery thread to compliment the fabric
  • Black embroidery thread for the triple stitching
  • Embroidery thread to blend with the fabric strips
  • Tearaway stabilizer
  • Fusible web (1/4” was used in the project)

  • Designs used in this project

    Preface:
    Templates are printed of the embroidery designs and placed as desired along the front of the purchased shirt. Bias strips of fabric are temporarily fused in place to join the embroidery. The first few stitches of color two of each design provide an outline of the embroidery. The machine is stopped and the bias strips are cut away from underneath the design area. Color one is sewn then color two; the bias strip ends are caught within the satin stitching to tack them down. Embroidery thread in a coordinating color is used to stitch along each edge of the bias strips. Black embroidery thread and a triple stitch on the sewing machine is used to create rows of stitching between the bias strips. There are no exact measurements for what is done on the shirt. Be creative and have fun placing and stitching the designs and fabric.


    Step 1:
    Gather the supplies and read through the instructions before beginning. Use the thread colors you would like. For this shirt, a light shade of thread was used for the inside light fill of each embroidery design and a darker shade of the same color was used for the satin border. Do the same or use contrasting colors if you’d like. Print out the paper templates of the designs.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 2:
    Decide which colors of thread will be used for each design. Write the colors on the template to keep track of your decisions.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 3:
    Press the shirt well.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 4:
    Try on the shirt and mark the apex of the bust. You probably don’t want an embroidery design right at the largest point of the bust of the shirt that would look like a bulls-eye.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 5:
    Play around with the templates and decide on the layout for the designs. Twist and turn them as you’d like and when you are pleased with the layout, pin them in place.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 6:
    Press the fabric for the bias strips well. Use a rotary cutter, ruler and mat to cut 1” strips. There are two ways to cut them. Cut them so the design goes straight down the middle, or cut them so there is an interesting twisted pattern to the strips. 

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 7:
    Press both cut edges of each strip toward the center and press under one short edge ¼”.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 8:
    If you have one, use a ½” bias tape maker to make quick work of pressing the bias strips. Cut and press lots of strips. Get a general idea of how many lengths of strips are needed by measuring the areas of the shirt where the strips will be sewn.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 9:
    On the left side of the shirt one design was placed because there was a pocket on the shirt. Place the folded end of the bias strip at the shoulder and bring the strip straight down toward the pocket, covering the paper template. 

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 10:
    Place a strip of fusible web under the strip and slightly fuse the bias strip in place above and below the paper template. Do not fuse the bias strip to the paper template.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 11:
    Place the bottom edge of the bias strip inside the pocket.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 12:
    Load the appropriate embroidery design on the machine. Hoop the shirt with a piece of tearaway stabilizer, centering the design in the hoop.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 13:
    Rotate the design about the same amount the paper template was rotated. It doesn’t need to be exact. Align the center of the design to the template. Advance the design to color 2. Slow the machine down. Place the first thread color on the machine.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 14:
    Stitch the first few stitches of color 2 which will stitch the outline of the design. Stop the machine after the outline stitches. The bias strip will be caught within the outline. When doing this, watch so that the presser foot doesn’t catch on the bias tape. These stitches of color 2 can be stitched in the first thread color used for the design. They will be covered up when the satin border stitches.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 15:
    Remove the hoop from the machine (but don’t remove the fabric from the hoop) and trim away the bias tape from inside the outline stitch. Trim close to the stitching line. The edge of the bias will be caught in the embroidery stitching.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 16:
    Go back to color 1 and stitch the light fill in the color chosen.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 17:
    As you can see, the top of the bias was not trimmed as closely as the bottom. The fabric will show through the light fill so be sure to trim close to the stitching when trimming the bias strips from within each embroidery design area. 

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 18:
    Change to thread color 2. Stitch the border.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 19:
    Remove the excess stabilizer and fuse the bias strip in place permanently.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)

     


    Step 20:
    Continue to place the strips as desired on the shirt right front. For the project, the edge of the strip was measured and placed 1 ½” from the outer edge of the placket all the way down to the hemline.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 21:
    The next bias strip was placed 1” from the first, and the third placed 1” away from the second, ending under the embroidery designs as shown.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 22:
    Follow the sequence of hooping each embroidery design with tearaway stabilizer, rotating and aligning the design, sewing the color 2 outline, trimming the bias strips from inside the outline and stitching the embroidery designs.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 23:
    The rectangle design was used for the collar. A bias strip was placed around the outside of the collar with the ends tucked under at the collar stand. The bias strip was fused in place then the embroidery was completed. Temporary spray adhesive was used to hold the collar in place for stitching.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 24:
    For each cuff, cut a bias strip the length of the cuff from the outside edge of the buttonhole to the button. Fuse in place, centering the bias strip on the cuff.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 25:
    After all the embroidery is completed and the bias strips are fused well, choose an embroidery thread color to coordinate with the fabric. Topstitch the bias fabric strips in place, backstitching at the top and bottom of each strip. Do not stitch into the embroidery designs.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 26:
    Create rows of triple stitching between the rows of bias strips. In the project, black embroidery thread was used and strips of tearaway stabilizer were placed under the rows to be stitched to help stabilize the fabric. 

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 27:
    Use the presser foot as a guide for stitching the remaining rows. Stitch two rows above the bias strip on the cuff. After the rows of stitching are done remove the tearaway stabilizer.

    (Click Image to Enlarge)



    Step 28:
    (Click Image to Enlarge)
    Congratulations, your “Geometric Boyfriend Shirt” is completed. Enjoy wearing this comfortable shirt. It could also be worn like a jacket with a colorful tank top underneath.


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    Meet The Author: Ramona Baird
    Ramona is a free-lance educator with many years of experience in the industry. She loves learning about new techniques and styles, and absolutely loves creating new and exciting projects for EmbroideryDesigns.com

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